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Thread: found one

  1. #331

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    Quote Originally Posted by ryanroo View Post
    i know, i spent a decent amount of time and a little money swapping that in place of the quadrajet

    do you have any more information on the hypertech?

    ryan
    It's the Hypertech stage 2 for an '88 3500 4x4 Chevy pick-up with the factory 454. It requires you to put a lower temp thermostat (160 degree) and 93 octane or better gas, it took me a little under a 1/2 hour to install. I had to tweek the timing a little because of my short exhaust and no catalytic converter but other than that it worked fine. I only used it for a month because of gas prices and the fact that gas was $3.50 at the time. 40 gallons at 8 MPG and a 60 mile commute daily doesn't add up.

    It looks like you've got the exact set up that came stock on my P/U from the intake manifold up. You'd better stock up on the gasket that goes between the intake and the heat riser. It cracks on the sides between the bolts almost dead center and wreaks havoc sucking air.

  2. #332

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    i have a flat 1/2" aluminum plate style carb to tbi adapter plate that i was thinking about swapping over to, and a helix power tower tbi spacer thing that i got in the process of swapping and horse trading that i was going to use. it seemed like an excessive amount of gaskets though, so i may just take your advice and keep a few spares around.

    i was going to have howell burn me a chip, but out of curiosity, how much would you sell your hypertech for?

    ryan
    67 #18820 mostly stock...

  3. #333

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    Quote Originally Posted by ryanroo View Post

    i was going to have howell burn me a chip, but out of curiosity, how much would you sell your hypertech for?

    ryan
    To be honest you'll probably be better off gettin' one burned. They will ask specific questions on things like intake, exhaust, induction, fuel pressure, cam and will be able to tune it more for what you have. I paid $210 for my chip and it never really seemed to be right. I put the stock fuel and intake system on an H.O. 454 GM Performance parts crate engine and even with the chip it seemed to lean out at high RPM (4-5000). Back when I bought the chip you couldn't get one burned anywhere. Now there are 3 or 4 different places here in my town that will do it. Fuel and spark are the key and I know I had plenty of spark (MSD blaster coil, Accel 300+ wires, MSD distributer). I think the stock fuel meters (injectors) aren't up to the task because the fuel pump and adjustable pressure regulator I installed were capable of pushin' 15-30 PSI. My personal opinion (if it was my truck) would be to check out some of Edelbrock's new plug and play fuel injection units. They're a 4 meter (injector) version of what you have but the computer is set up for on-the-fly adjustability. Pretty Sweet!

  4. #334

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    a few new pics of the jeep. i have wanted to make a new pitman arm for a while to get rid of the single shear and to add a little drop to bring the geometry a little closer to ideal. i started on this with the CAD drawings and stuff several weeks ago. finally got a chance to finish and cut/form it. spent the morning welding it together. all this so i can finally get some hydro assist steering.










    and this is one of the next projects i have in store...



    ryan
    67 #18820 mostly stock...

  5. #335
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Eastern Colorado
    Posts
    149

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    nice work on the pitman arm Ryan I want one

  6. #336
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,661

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    Nice arm...that is NOT a weak link!!
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

  7. #337

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    Nice job on the arm!

    Are you going with GM 63s in the rear? If so look forward to see how you mount them, I'm about to mount mine when I get home from work. I've got the old ones removed and almost have the rear section of the frame boxed in. Can't decided if I want to french the front rear hanger in or just weld and plate it to the bottom of the frame. The rear hangers could go either way as well. What are your thoughts?
    M715 Dreamer.

  8. #338

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    Quote Originally Posted by CE_TX View Post
    Nice job on the arm!

    Are you going with GM 63s in the rear? If so look forward to see how you mount them, I'm about to mount mine when I get home from work. I've got the old ones removed and almost have the rear section of the frame boxed in. Can't decided if I want to french the front rear hanger in or just weld and plate it to the bottom of the frame. The rear hangers could go either way as well. What are your thoughts?
    they are actually 60"ers from a 3/4 ton suburban. the burbs are a little shorter for some reason.

    i thought about frenching them, but in the end i dont think it will be worth it. i am going to ramp the front face of the hangers so they slide. my other thought for not frenching the hangers was the fact that i am pretty sure i will need the extra height from leaving them under the frame. so my plan is to go under the frame and probably through the frame for a bushing at the rear for the shackle. ill know more when i get into it further.

    ryan
    67 #18820 mostly stock...

  9. #339

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    I was thinking the same on gaining more lift by leaving them under the frame without frenching them in.

    Post the pics once you get started.
    M715 Dreamer.

  10. #340

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    most definately. it may be this winter though. i want to get the parking brake figured out before it gets cold and we are set to get busy at work, so i will probably wait till after that so i can hopefully use the work shop for a weekend to get it done
    Ryan
    67 #18820 mostly stock...

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