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Thread: M715 project underway 305 chevy with 200-4R auto

  1. #131
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
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    1,290

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    I'm getting a little embarrassed. I have gone through 4 belts in the last ~325 miles. I'm ready to purchase a laser tool to align the pulleys. I can't figure out what isn't lined up. This time the belt didn't come off but split down the middle. I pulled over and removed the broken part and drove home at 25 mph hoping the unbroken part of the belt would hold. It did.

    Anyone have any other suggestions?

  2. #132

    Default M715 project underway 305 chevy with 200-4R auto

    I wouldn't say they need to be laser aligned.

    Run one for a few miles and inspect see what ya see. I would say it is odd.

    How tight are u getting the belt? Or does it have its own self adjuster.

    Do all your pulleys and belt have the same number of ribs?

  3. #133

    Default M715 project underway 305 chevy with 200-4R auto

    Inspect every pulley all the way around. Maybe one has a burr or some damage that is tearing them up.

  4. #134
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
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    7,775

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    Did you by chance change the harmonic balancer?
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  5. #135
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    Sep 2010
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    Middleville, mi.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrman View Post
    Did you by chance change the harmonic balancer?
    No I haven't. I've checked the rubber on it a couple times and it still seems solid.

    I've seen your posts about the balancer going out so I have checked mine.

    Should I replace it anyway? I suppose it may be cheap insurance?

  6. #136
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Middleville, mi.
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    Today I used my laser level to see if I could line up the pulleys. To be clear I didn't actually try to move any pulleys today. It was just an experiment of concept.

    I held the laser level flat against the alternator cooling fins. On my cs144 alternator it is a nice flat surface that is easy to access.

    When I pointed it at the power steering pump the laser hit on the rear grove of the pulley. When I held it in place and spun it up to the A/C pump it was in the center of the pulley. That is at least a 1/4" difference.

    I couldn't hit the crank pulley from my alternator because the tensioner was in the way. I haven't removed that yet to see where it hits.

    I'm trying to come up with a way I can move the level to other pulleys to get an idea if my alternator is that far off or if the A/C pump is off by that far. I couldn't get any pictures because I was by myself today but I plan to get my son to help get some pictures this week so I can post up what I'm doing.

    The level I'm using is an Ideal #35-207 laser level. It is supposed to draw a line on the surface it is aimed at but that lens broke a few years ago so the level has been sitting in my tool box forgotten about until this weekend. I'm hoping to find a replacement lens for it soon. It actually came in handy when running conduit. But I haven't run much conduit in the last 9 years. I'm just using it as a laser pointer until I can find a new lens.
    Last edited by jeeper; April 21st, 2013 at 11:02 PM.

  7. #137
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    Dec 2003
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    Giddings, Texas
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    No on the balancer if it looks ok and the engine kind of shakes to a stop when you turn it off. I am not really sure how else to describe that. When you turn it off, it will almost seem a violent end. Compared to a worn out gas engine that kind of winds down. If that makes any sense. If you belts are loose enough, the alternator and water pump might actually squeal when you turn off the engine. That is all good. Bad is when it doesn't shake because it normally means the balancer is moving.

    With 1/4" difference, I think you just have an alignment problem. I don't know what a serpentine 6.2 system looks like. I have never seen one. I do know the V belt 6.2 set up has very little room between the ps bracket and pulley. However, the bracket attaches to the block on studs. Does yours?

    If so, maybe, just maybe you put the studs on the engine and the bracket over the studs. Compared to using the stud to hold the bracket on. That would move it about 1/4" away from the engine.

    Just throwing ideas out.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  8. #138
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    Sep 2010
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    Middleville, mi.
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    I think I may have figured out why my belt kept breaking/coming off.

    I didn't get any pictures of what I did but will try and explain it for my own benefit later if it happens again.

    I ended up using the laser pointer in a flash light because my laser level was too big in some of the places.

    I cut a block of wood that would hold the flashlight tight and I taped it onto the flashlight with electrical tape. The block of wood is the same width as the pulley and has a "v" in it to help it sit on the pulley a little lower. I held this on the pulley and spun it around to see where the dot hit on the nearest pulley. I would then spin it around to see where it hit on the next pulley. The serpentine pulleys are grooved so it is pretty easy to see if the dot hits the same ridge or groove on all pulleys.

    After about 20 seconds with the pointer it was easy to see two problems. First and biggest was the alternator was on crooked. I was able to see it easily by eye once I knew what I was looking for. And then I also was able to see my power steering pulley was slightly bent. It didn't move much but was off by a half a groove in a half turn. I found one at a salvage yard and replaced mine with that.

    I still don't have everything perfect but was able to drive 45 mph yesterday and not loose the belt.

    I will get everything a little more aligned when I am done with my on board accessories later this spring. I am in the process of converting a cs-144 alternator into a welder. I am also converting the AC compressor into an air compressor. Once I have both of those ready to use I will be fine tuning the pulleys. But since I keep taking them off and on I will wait on the final adjustment.

  9. #139
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Greenwood, Indiana
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    1,757

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    Good find Paul. Those things can be frustrating
    Thanks, George
    Joshua 24:15

  10. #140
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
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    I decided to post some pictures of my welder so far.

    I bought a 100 amp three phase bridge rectifier from ebay. I mounted it to a used electrical box I acquired over the years and have been hoarding.


    I used this surplus fuse holder to make my lugs to connect the large wires. (I had some 4 gauge s.o. cord that I was hording as well). The smaller wires are 10 awg thhn and are bolted to the rectifier with ring terminals.




    This is the modified lug that went on the box side. I used just the bottom part in the picture on the rectifier. It was a perfect fit.


    Here it is waiting to get mounted into the Jeep.


    I drew up a wiring diagram on a piece of paper and will be posting that as well after I test everything to be sure it is correct.

    I didn't think to take pictures of the inside of the alternator while I had it apart. I can take it back apart and get some pictures if anyone wants to see it. That is if anyone asks before I get it mounted into my Jeep.

    I plan to use one alternator as my alternator and also my welder. I will be wiring a switch in my dash that will disconnect the alternator from my trucks wiring when it is time to weld.

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