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Thread: Cummins Mount

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

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    Quote Originally Posted by jrok93003 View Post
    If so I need details and pics if possible.
    Don't take this the wrong way, but if you are doing something as complex as a Cummins swap into your M715, then engine mounts are going to be the easier part.

    What are your plans for driveline parts like the driveshafts, transfer case, axles, electrics, exhaust, radiator, etc?

    There isn't a book or list, or step-by-step explanation of how to install that Cummins into an M715. Sure, many have done it, but I'd bet every one was a little different.
    "Free advice is worth what you pay for it."™

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by randyscycle View Post
    Don't take this the wrong way, but if you are doing something as complex as a Cummins swap into your M715, then engine mounts are going to be the easier part.

    What are your plans for driveline parts like the driveshafts, transfer case, axles, electrics, exhaust, radiator, etc?

    There isn't a book or list, or step-by-step explanation of how to install that Cummins into an M715. Sure, many have done it, but I'd bet every one was a little different.
    I will be using stock drive train except the cummins and getrag tranny with a stub shaft going to the stock transfer. I will aslo do a 12v conversion.

    I really just was trying to get an idea of where to weld in the stock mount from a dodge. I would think to get the engine without the mech fan as close to the radiator as possible that a way i have room for a stub shaft. I have read that you can put a cummins in and clear the hood and axle if it is placed right.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Aurora, CO
    Posts
    334

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    Depending on what mounts (1st gen, 2nd gen, marine, Lord isolators, etc) your motor mounts will vary to the frame. The only real way to do it is put the engine on a hoist and start cutting cardboard.

    There are some build that will give you a close idea but nothing that you can throw in without test fitting.

    Take your time and the payoff will be so worth it. Other than SBC swaps, there are no drop in kits or how tos really.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    ST LOUIS,MO
    Posts
    277

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    If you have a first gen truck the front and rear crossmembers work perfect. The front is a perfect fit and the rear will mount on the outside of the frame rails. If you are using the getrag , just center the shift tower in the trans. cover hole and the front mount should be perfect. You will probably have to notch the crossmember for the steering shaft and shorten the exhaust elbow by an inch or so but it isnt that bad of a swap. I have logged around 10 or 11k on my truck since then and I love it. I even squeezed 16 mpg out of it with 4:10's and 38's.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    ST LOUIS,MO
    Posts
    277

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    I may have talked out of turn, mine has a spring over on it. Also your bellhousing will hit before you have and hood clearance problems.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lafayette, Indiana
    Posts
    9

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    Sorry i know this is an old thread chris did you use the cross member out of a 2 or 4wd first gen. I have a 2wd laying around but thought it might be more trouble thanbit is worth to reuse the cross member. Could you possibly post some pics of your set up too?

  7. #17

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    you don't need a x-member under the engine

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Anchorage, AK
    Posts
    414

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    This guy http://www.m715zone.com/vb/showthread.php?t=14699 mentioned that his friend who owns a Cummins swap company was going to be selling FSJ Cummins bolt-in mounts. Might be worth following up.

  9. #19

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    I used 2nd gen dodge mounts, flipped them upside down then made new side mounts to go over to frame rails after I removed all the stock m715 mounts. also I used a center sump oil pan/pickup for more pan clearance to front diff.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lafayette, Indiana
    Posts
    9

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    I know i probably dont need the crossmember butbi figured if the cross member would fit right in why not use it. I dont really have the means to metal fab work in my garage so any major fab work will have to be done for me so i would rather make something already there work if possible

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