clutch replacement section in manual

[randyscycle]

I know you're already into it a ways, but I found that removing the front sheet metal isn't much work at all. Once that's done the engine is just a few bolts from coming out too.

Literally, I recall the entire front clip can be removed in one chunk with about 12-14 bolts, not including disconnecting the wiring and radiator hoses. Then all that's left is the fuel lines, bellhousing bolts, front pipe, motor mounts and throttle linkage.

I couldn't find an engine hoist that would lift anything high enough to get it out with the front sheetmetal on unless you used a chainfall and beam.

[Barrman]

Randy,
I have used a Harbor freight and a Snap-On engine hoist to remove the stock 230/T98. Both required the use of a load leveler to basically stand the unit on end to get up to the front sheet metel and then flatten it back out again to get over the front sheet metal. The tires had to be deflated in both cases.

A regular engine hoist will work, but removing the metal is a better way to do it. You will be able to walk around and do work instead of balancing on your knees and hands and climbing up and down a lot.

[Warthog]

the nuts loosened up, so I need to replace the nuts and add star washers, need to change the ring gear on the flywheel, anyone have one? will ask in the wanted section also

Duane

Contact AB Linn. He has them for ~$10. I ordered one a few months ago. I haven't put it on yet.

Wart Hog

[Duane]

Got everything out, the nuts loosened on the flywheel and one was stuck rattling in the pressure plate causing it to jam, was able to get trans out without moving transfer case back, by rolling it to one side, out in a little less than 2 and a half hours, easier than pulling the motor at this point, when the motor comes out I am gonna freshen it, so i will savwe that for another time, got the ring gear and throwout bearing from A B Linn, and sent the starter out (12v) to an place to get repaired. puttin the Pto back on the trans when it goes in bcause I am removing the warn winch and putting the LU4 back on, just have to get a PTO shaft assy.

Duane

1967 M715 FD brush truck

[brute4c]

Winch truck....I'm jealous!

Hope the rest goes smooth for ya...need anything, just ask.

[O.D. Fever]

Ok read this post and the engine will be out soon. I have one broken flywheel bolt, its gone, flywheel wobbles and knocks from the bellhousing. Been lazy and did not look that close. I am going to pull the engine and reseal it, Oil pan must come off to get the new bolts in. I think i'll pull the sheet metal, does look like it might be alittle strech for my picker. My rear oil line is leaking and so is everything else. I think this is the way to go, motor mounts need to be replaced. The good thing is I think the motor is good with only 13,000 miles. I'm getting my M715 Baptism, dunked in oil and coolent. Let the FUN begin. Joe

[fishtail]

Guys, take your time and do it right the first time. Doing it twice doesn't sound like fun.

Check your u-joints, too, on that short shaft.

Scott

[O.D. Fever]

I cant see a Grunt in the field changing the clutch in this, What were they thinking. No wonder 20,000 of these where left in Nam. I am going to make this truck as close to stock as I can without breaking the bank. I'll have it all torn down soon. Then the parts hunt will be on. Paint in the spring. Joe

[Don Cavey]

Great point on the seals...

if you need to have the flywhel faced, pulling the motor and trans is the only way to do it without going crazy.

And as an alternative to having the flywheel faced, you may want to contact AB Linn. I got an NOS flywheel with ring gear already attached from them via eBay and it was much cheaper than having one faced. A benefit of NOS is that you know it won't have hard spots from an inexperienced driver using the clutch as a lower gear .

[Duane]

I am not trying to deter you from pulling the motor, but if you are only resealing the pan and changing the motor mounts while you do the clutch, then i wouldnt bother, as you can see in the posts, I pulled the clutch, pulled the pan, changed ALL of the flywheel bolts (memphis has them if you need them) new rear main seal, new pan gasket, also put new motor mounts on, and put the pto back on the trans and changed the oil line, and i dont think i had 10 hours on the job, and did most of it by myself. oh i also brought the trans to work put syncros and bearings in it, but that wasnt included in the 10 hours, it casn be done without pulling the motor, but if you want to pull it anyway, have at it,

just make sure you change all the flywheel bolts.


Duane