Need Suggestions for Repair Please

[AEM67M715]

When removing my passenger side rear upper shock bolts the threaded part broke off or was rusted off. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to repair to keep the stock look ? Thanks for your consideration.

[vacca rabite]

Is the threaded part of the bolt still in the frame of the truck? I am guessing yes, but your post is not clear.

How to do this depends on how the bolt broke, and what tools you have.
First things first, on the way home tonight, stop at your FLAPS and get some PB BLASTER. 2 spray cans worth. If you don't have one, also buy a MAPP torch. Finally, if you don't have them, buy a set of vice grips - big ones.

Okay. Now spray the bolt really good with PB Blaster. Now, let it sit, nad look at it. is the bolt broken flush with the frame, or is part of the bolt extended out?

If the bolt is extended out, hit it with some more PB. Then start heating the metal AROUND the bolt (but not the bolt itself) with the MAPP torch.

Get the vice grips out, and clamp on TIGHT to the bolt shank. While the metal is still really hot, try and turn the bolt loose. If it does not come, spray some more PB on it. Heat up the metal again. Turn the bolt tighter, and then loose with the vice grips.

Keep doing this until the bolt turns out. it will take time but it will come.

Zach

[vacca rabite]

Now, if the bolt is broken flush with the frame, you are going to need some more parts.
Go find a left hand twist drill bit, just a tad smaller then the stuck bolt. You may need to order one. PITA, but maybe worth it.

Hit it with the PB and the heat, as above. LOTS of PB. You are still hoping that the bolt will turn out.

With the metal nice and hot, start drilling with the LHT drill bit. Go in straight and smooth, right through the center of the bolt. If you are lucky, the drilling will loosen the bolt to the point where it turns out of the hole. This is why you used the LHT bit.

If you are not lucky, drill all the way through the bolt anyhow. You are going to need to re-drill it with a standard bit. You will need to go oversized and either tap it for a step-stud or install a time-cert for a new bolt.

Good luck!
Zach

[AEM67M715]

Thanks, I will give it a shot.

[vacca rabite]

One more thing. Don't bother with a broken bolt extractor, like you will find at Home Depot or Lowes. They never ever work. And if they brake and snap off in the bolt, you are doubly screwed. Those bits are made over very hard metal, and are very difficult to drill out.

Zach

[AEM67M715]

SO it is a bolt that runs through the bracket not just a post with threaded ends. Im trying to picture it.

[Roy]

Fire up the "blue wrench"!!!

[moosejr]

The bolt idea is really good, and a worthwhile point, because that way you will have the threads you need to put a nut on, that you wouldn't using just rod. Make sure you use a Grade 5 bolt, not Grade 8. The problem with grade 8 is that by the time you put enough heat to it to weld it in, you make the metal brittle because of it already being hardened, . .not to mention how difficult it will be to cut the head off of to start with.

On another note, . .the bolt extractors will work if needed, but the key to them is that they will only REMOVE the broken piece, they won't BREAK IT LOOSE, so unless you get the rust broken loose with the heat so that the bolt will come out. . you just end up breaking the extractor, which as Zach said, . .is worse than where you started at.

[AEM67M715]

Fire up the "blue wrench"!!!

Thanks to all the help, I will be able to make the repair easily now.

[AEM67M715]

I thought that it was a solid shank not a bolt and I just broke off the threads on the end. I will take a better look at it. Thanks for the insite