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Thread: Wheel Cylinder Conversion

  1. #1

    Default Wheel Cylinder Conversion

    Hey Jon, do you want to add this to the Manuals Section?

    Brake Cylinder Conversion to a
    ’93 Ford E350 Cylinder
    Tru Torque W37262 and W37263 available at most auto parts stores

    I know that many of us have done this conversion and fumbled our way thru it.

    I have the privilege of being mechanically inclined by learning from my dad many years ago. Wow… it’s been 34 years now, I sure miss him

    I read most of the postings about this conversion and understood them but thought others might be confused.

    This is not the only way of doing this….your mileage may vary…..


    After jacking up the truck, secure the jack stands (everyone should use jack stands) and remove the tire.

    Remove the three retaining screws. If they are stubborn (which they all are) try using the biggest screwdriver you have. Hit it with a hammer as you try tightening the screw. I know that sounds strange but by tightening the screw it will help break the rust bond.



    Remove the brake drum. You may have to back off the shoes with the starwheel.
    This is what most of us find.



    Inspecting the wheel cylinder you will likely find corrosion. The brakes won’t work if they look like this.



    Remove all the hardware. I also removed the hub because I was also repacking the bearings.



    This is the mounting plate with the new wheel cylinder before elongating the mounting holes.



    This is the mounting plate after elongating the holes. I used a Dremel tool but a round file works just as well.



    The new wheel cylinder mounted



    All the hardware mounted.



    All that is left is reinstalling the drum, applying anti-seize to the retaining screws, adjusting the shoes with the star wheel and bleeding the brakes.

    Until next time,
    Wart Hog
    Live like you will die tomorrow. Dream like you will live forever!!!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    northern Arizona
    Posts
    1,025

    Default

    Good write-up - doing that this week - 3rd truck.
    67 M725 67 M715 68 M715

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    399

    Default

    Nice write-up and pics. One thing I found was that the stock brake hose/line fittings didn't screw directly into the new cylinders, I had to have an adapter. The existing fitting was too large for the new cylinder. I used NAPA parts 9025 (left) and 9026 (right) which were referenced in another thread. Not a big deal, but the down-side of putting the adapter fittings in is less space to work. I ended up having to bend the brake line a little to get everything to fit.

  4. #4

    Default Mine fit

    When I did this, the new brake hoses fit the cylinders. I have not heard of them not. Interesting!

  5. #5

    Default

    I wonder if you brake lines have been replaced. The wheel cylinders I and many others used did not require any additional connectors. Bolted right up.

    Wart Hog
    Live like you will die tomorrow. Dream like you will live forever!!!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,380

    Default

    Another FANTASTIC job on a tech swap!! I have a set I need to do this too and was gonna do such a write up...if I ever get time...

    SWEET!!!

  7. #7

    Default

    I really like the photographs to go along with the explanation. I've read about this modification, but was hesitant due to the required hole enlargement modification. However, after viewing the pictures, it appears to be very a very minor alteration. Thanks for the thread.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    northern Arizona
    Posts
    1,025

    Default

    Some other hints for removing the drum retaining screws:

    I gave up on impact hammers, as I always break/twist the bits.

    I lube thoroughly with penetrating oil, then I use a chisel and a hammer to try and turn the screw.

    If that doesn't work on it's own, I take a drill and a 3/8" bit and drill into the center of the screw. After I make a hole approx 3/8" deep, I use the chisel again. By removing the material in the center of the screw, it allows the remainder to flex and a few whacks with the chisel and they turn out.

    Successful 9 out of 9 on this truck.

    My brake lines screwed right in as well.
    67 M725 67 M715 68 M715

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wart Hog View Post

    Brake Cylinder Conversion to a
    ’93 Ford E350 Cylinder
    Tru Torque W37262 and W37263 available at most auto parts stores
    Okay, so I get the right stuff....

    I want 2 each of the W37262 and W37263 parts, right?

    Which goes on the front, and which goes on the back?

    If I want to drive my truck on my B-day, I need to get my butt in gear and get my brakes done.

    Zach

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    399

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wart Hog View Post
    I wonder if you brake lines have been replaced. The wheel cylinders I and many others used did not require any additional connectors. Bolted right up.

    Wart Hog
    Thought about that, but I replaced the left-rear which connects to a hard line that appeared original and I replaced the right-front including an NOS brake hose from Memphis. The NOS hose had the same size fitting as the left-rear hard line (and the original right-front hose) and did not directly fit the NAPA 9026 cylinder.

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