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Thread: twin stick 205 Q's

  1. #1

    Default twin stick 205 Q's

    I pulled out the actuating rod and did the grinding per 4x4 Off Road, abrubt cut on the end and sloping middle grind. I put it back together and tried it out. What I need to know is what grind on the rod does what. I was able to get 4 rear low without front engaged. I tried neutral rear and put the front into gear. It would seem to just nibble (just catching) when I turned it, so the front would solidly engage, but the rear drive would chug. I need to know what I need to grind more off of- thanks!! I would love to get this in ASAP so I can get my emissions done to bring it to the FE- gonz
    Come and take it
    Go work at joann fabrics if you can't shoot a gun

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Giddings, Texas
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    7,732

    Default

    I did the grind it until it was right thing a year or so ago on my 205. I just don't remember which one did what.

    But, what you are grinding is a place for the interlock spring loaded ball to go allowing un natural combinations of the two levers. Therefore, grinding not enough will make the other shaft not go all the way to where you want it to. Grinding too much off will weaken your shaft and possible if you don't make the ramp side of the cut smooth enough cause that shaft to not want to move easily. I say cut some more at the sharp edge end on depth and maybe a little on length.

    The more I write on this, the more I remember on mine. I had to put it in, check, pull it out, grind, repeat at least 3 or 4 times before I was happy.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

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  3. #3

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    That seems to be what other people have written as well (pete and repeat). That rolled pin is a PITA to get in and out, my hand was barely fitting into the PTO hole to find the dropped pin. I'll need to make sure the ramp (middle) grind is smoother as well.

    So you think I should cut more on the end grind, and smooth up the ramp middle grind? I tried to be conservative on my grinds. I couldn't find any direct measurements for the grind, just some photos on 4x4 off road. They should have took a shot with tape right on the rod, instead of behind it. It's off enough to really question how much material to take off- gonz
    Come and take it
    Go work at joann fabrics if you can't shoot a gun

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,732

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    My hand didn't fit in there too good either. But, after so many times I got good enough to not drop the pin.

    Yes, grind just a little more off and make it smoother.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  5. #5

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    Right on- gonz
    Come and take it
    Go work at joann fabrics if you can't shoot a gun

  6. #6

    Default

    So I pulled the rod out, grinded it some more, and then tried to put it back. For the life of me I couldn't get the rolled pin back in. I even grinded a round nose to it to help out. I finally split the rolled pin with the screw driver I had it on to guide it/hammer it in. And it's too late to get to a shop and buy one. I'm going to buy three of them tomorrow. What a bummer- gonz
    Come and take it
    Go work at joann fabrics if you can't shoot a gun

  7. #7

    Default

    I bought some roll pins a harbour freight. The pins size is 7/32 in case you throw yours away before measuring it like I did. Put it together and I get all the combos. Now just to put it in!!

    When I was looking at the yokes, isn't there normally a "lip" that keeps the ujoint in the right spot? I'm used to my wrangler and this truck where both have these for ujoints. This 205 is smooth all the way from the inside to the outside of the yoke. Is this right or weird? I'm afraid that I'm not going to center the ujoint correctly. I would like to find out before I put it in that I need to fix or swap out the yokes.

    Oh, and if I can do the twin stick, anyone can- gonz
    Come and take it
    Go work at joann fabrics if you can't shoot a gun

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,732

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    The smooth yokes require you to have a u-joint that has the c-clips on the inside. My 1972 Dodge 205 has the same yokes.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gonz View Post
    When I was looking at the yokes, isn't there normally a "lip" that keeps the ujoint in the right spot? I'm used to my wrangler and this truck where both have these for ujoints. This 205 is smooth all the way from the inside to the outside of the yoke. Is this right or weird? I'm afraid that I'm not going to center the ujoint correctly. I would like to find out before I put it in that I need to fix or swap out the yokes.
    Gonz

    I wondered the same thing about the lip and snap ring when I posted to this thread.

    Do I need a Slip jont from Trans to T-case?

    Doug and Randy posted some info on the U-Joint.

    Hope this helps.

  10. #10

    Default

    I totally overlooked that thread. Man, the ability to get good information quickly from this site always amazes me. How would one measure the correct size of the ujoint on a yoke without a lip? Complete edge to edge? I want to have the correct size ujoints so I don't leave my truck in my friend's driveway after putting in the tcase, lol- gonz

    Never mind, I googled "measure u-joint internal clip" and found this website http://www.pstds.com/driveshafts_101.htm
    Some good info there for people like me!!
    Come and take it
    Go work at joann fabrics if you can't shoot a gun

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