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Thread: Tire Removal - Split Rims

  1. #1

    Default Tire Removal - Split Rims

    Finally got to take my spare down and it is as I thought, a rotted recap. Never having taken a split rim apart I searched the site but the only reference link I found no longer works (old). Any instructions out there on how to dismount a tire on the split rims? After it is off, I'll blast and paint the rim and then take it to a pro to put the new tire on. Just want to remove it myself and save a trip to town and $$$.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    Doesnt this link work from the Online Manuals section:

    http://www.m715zone.com/vb/view.php?pg=splitrim_change

  3. #3

    Default Works from here

    Works from here but there is a similar link in a post that fails. Thanks. Did not look in the manuals section.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    Get a duck billed tire bead breaking hammer. Most truck stops and NAPA stores should have one. Figure $75-$125 depending on wood or fiber handle. I got a wood handle, broke down over 15 tires before I had to spend another $25 for a replacement handle. Do it as you wish.

    Remove the valve stem from the tub and lay the tire/rim on a solid surface. Stand on the tire and swing the hammer at where the bead meets the lock ring. OOOPS, you hit the ring instead and bent it. Swing again. You hit the tire and it bounced back. Try again. THUNK! perfect. The bead should have gone down about 1/2"-1". Move the hammer over about 6 inches and do it again all the way around the tire.

    A set of two tire irons is preferable. But, a pry bar or large screw driver will work. Find the split in the ring. If you are outside the tire looking at the split, you want to put the tip of the iron under the right lip and push down on the left lip. Once it moves, you will see a notch about 1" from the lip next to the rim can. Stick your other iron in that notch. Using that notch and with the first iron out of the way, pry the ring out and up. It might not go if the tire bead isn't down far enough. Once you get about 6" of ring out, another notch will appear. Stick your other iron in there. I always like to use the iron not in use to keep the thing from springing back to the starting point, so stick the iron just removed under the ring so it will stay up when your other iron slips out or you loose your grip. Once you pry from the second notch, you should have about 1/2 of the ring off. Give it a good tug and it just might pop on off.

    Now, you get to turn the can/tire over and break the bead on that side. I have found about 50% of the time when I stand the tire/can up and flop it upside down the can will pop loose. Either way, the bead has to be broken free.

    Push the valve stem into the tire and out of the rim and walk the rim out of the tire. DONE!

    I used to use a Hi-lift to break the bead. I thought 30 minutes a tire was good. Some of my 1951 made rims wearing 1953 date stamped NDT's on my M35 took me several days to break the bead. Then I got a duck billed hammer. 5 minutes is a long break down for me now.

    There are other ways people use to break the bead, they work for the most part. It just depends on how much time you want to spend on it.

    Of course, your local truck stop/big rig tire shop can do it in about 2 minutes for a nice fee. If you are confused, take a tire to them and watch what they do. Pay them, go home and practice.

    I personally like the split ring rims because it makes field fixes easy.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  5. #5

    Default

    Just to add a thought. I bought a bead breaking tool from Northern Tools for around $30 and it was a big help with changing my tires.
    Last edited by Chumley; May 30th, 2008 at 05:06 PM. Reason: spelling

  6. #6

    Default

    Yeah, duck billed hammer is an absolute must, I can get the bead down in a matter of minutes with that thing. Another secret is soapy water. I got an old NDT that probably hadn't been removed off the rim in 20-30 years. I tried and tried with the duck billed hammer and it wouldn't budge. Poured some warm soapy water all around between the lock ring and the tire, waited a bit, then had that bead off in minutes. Soapy water really works.
    68 M-715
    67 M-725

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Alexandria KY
    Posts
    482

    Default

    Around these parts there are tire repair/changer trucks that perform field services for semis and tractors on the farm, etc. I had them show up at my place, beak down and change tires, tubes and liners on 2 M715 rims and 2 M35 rims and the bill was 80 bucks. I supplied the parts.
    '67 M715 '42 GPW '45 MB

  8. #8

    Default

    Its the same way to deuce rims...

    http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.p...uce+tire+break
    "We are here for the meeting!"

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    The tire hammer is great only if the rim and tire haven't been together for 30+ years......

    I find that the best way to break down really nasty, rusty old tires, is to lay them flat on the ground and using the high-lift under the 715 bumper, push them down and get the lock ring off.

    With a nice clean, painted rim, and a newer tire, then the tire hammer will bring them right off no problem, otherwise, you'll probably end up beating yourself silly, working up a sweat, and even dinging up your lock ring to no avail.

    And as far as once its off, get your new tire, tube and flap and put it back on yourself. Yes, you do need to be careful, and clean with it, but these rims won't kill you, if you install the lock ring properly. Once the ring is seated, and the tire slides up over it, there really is no way it can come off, and when its installed properly you can tell just by the appearance. It "fits" correctly all the way around its circumference.
    "Free advice is worth what you pay for it."™

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    We tried the hi lift on the bead at the first FE...remember that Bump_r? My truck was jacked up so high the hi-lift was gonna go over...so we pulled up a 2nd truck...it was wheels up before it even started to give...we had big fun...

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