BBC deuce trans swap (was radiators and more)

[gimpyrobb]

Yup. Republic diesel here in cincinnati. 513.860.9803 I found them by calling around asking for availability and pricing. I told them Others will probably call and they are fine with it. I liked their customer service.

[gimpyrobb]

No insider info on clutch linkage? The pivot end that pushes on the clutch release lever looks to accept a 3/8 rod. I suppose anything larger would be over-kill? I am at a loss at where I put the Z-bar from the C60. Anyone have an extra they could send out? In comparison of the M725 bulb and the C60 bulb that the Z-bar rides on, I think I need the larger bar for longevity.

[Barrman]

I'm still thinking about it Chris.

You have the stock pedal and rod going straight down from the cab.

You have the throw out arm sticking out from the bell not very far behind that.

You need to mount the Z bar somehow and still have enough leverage to push the darn thing. What you rigged up makes you come out of the seat to push on.

Is that right?

The longer the arms, the easier it is to push, but the less travel you have. So, I would suggest a long arm on the pedal side of the Z bar and normal or small on the clutch side. That should make it easy to push yet not take a lot of travel.

As far as mounting the Z-bar. I don't remember what Tom did. I do know that Brian made a piece of angle iron fit the two vertical bell to engine bolts and then welded some flat like your motor mounts are made out of to it going forward. He put the ball stud on that and it worked.

This will sound silly, but 3/8 or 7/16 threaded rod would be a great thing to make the Z-bar to throw out arm rod out of. You can then adjust it anyway you want as long as you want. Once you get it set, drive it a bunch and still like it, just tack weld a lock nut behind the nut you are using as a stop and it will never get shorter, yet you can still adjust it out for clutch disc wear.

[gimpyrobb]

The arm isn't inline with the bulb, so I was thinking of using a HIEM joint with threaded rod to go to the throw out arm. I guess I need to see how much travel the arm needs to completely release the clutch disk, and then find a way to make the clutch pedal side of the Z-bar longer than the hiem side. I will post up what I find.

[Doug]

No insider info on clutch linkage? The pivot end that pushes on the clutch release lever looks to accept a 3/8 rod. I suppose anything larger would be over-kill? I am at a loss at where I put the Z-bar from the C60. Anyone have an extra they could send out? In comparison of the M725 bulb and the C60 bulb that the Z-bar rides on, I think I need the larger bar for longevity.

Gimp, I built one from scratch for my 400SBC/SM420 combo. 3/4 Sch40 Black pipe (gas pipe) for the tube, scraps of 1/4" plate for the tabs. Anyway, basically kept the location and geometry of the tabs the same, except moving them away from the block. Had to do this to clear the headers. The rod from my z bar to the clutch fork runs at a little bit of an angle, doesn't seem to be an issue. Really not the best info for you as you engine, manifolds, and transmission are different. More just trying to help you spawn ideas of your own to get the job done.

[gimpyrobb]

Thats kind of what I was looking for Doug, I want to build it strong. how long are the arms to move the throw out arm? I know mine will be different, just want a ballpark idea so I don't go way overboard. Thanks for the thread change Jon. I figure this might help with future searches to find info. Doug said he would send the $40 for me.

[Doug]

The tabs aren't much more than 2" or 2.5" each. I used a 1" hole saw to cut the tabs to fit nicely on the pipe (3/4 measures 1.050 outside). I think I have a stock one laying around, but it's tough to say if the throw on yours will need to be the same or not. If I recall correctly, the clutch pedal side pivot point is closer to the center line of the 3/4 pipe than the clutch fork side.

[Roy]

What about hydraulic clutch release? Fewer clearance issues, mostly plumbing. Can use either a push or pull slave depending on requirments and clearance issues. Justa thought....I'm pullin' for ya Gimpster....

[gimpyrobb]

I looked at that Roy. I found a bell at one of my parts places that has a setup on the passenger side for a hydo throw out, but its $150, plus the slave and master cyl. I don't know how to convert, too much "learning" to do to have this running in 14 days. Also, I learned that the driver side manifold doesn't work either. This is what is needed on BOTH sides. Anyone got a driver side near Cincy?

[fisherman]

Setting up a hydraulic clutch is pretty easy. Once your clutch and fork are installed properly all you have to do is mount a slave cylinder in the middle of it's throw, most are adjustable. Slave to clutch fork. Mounting the slave could be troublesome? Plumb up to the master cylinder which comes off your clutch pedal. Making a mounting bracket for the clutch master and adapting a push rod for the master was a little time consuming. Other than that plumb in a flex brake line, I used a stock rear M truck brake line for my flex line. So far it works sweet with carlike clutch pedal. I'm glad I took the time to do this mod. Good Luck.