Paint Stripper

[rboltz]

Getting close to roll out so we can strip the 4-5 layers of old paint. Anyone have a preference for paint strippers? Any experience with the water soluble soluble 510? The 510 can be power washed off and won't hurt the ground but must be sprayed on with an airless sprayer.

[rip68]

Sand blasting. I've tried different chemical strippers - waste of time & elbow grease.

[fisherman]

I used my fare share of paint strippers on my truck with great success. Bix, stripper and Sherwin Williams paste stripper that I had left over from some jobs. Both worked great. Sand blasting definately has it's place as does sanding down the paint. Sometimes there is a definate need for paint stripper. I used paint stripper on my hood, front valance and front fenders, the rest was either sanded down to bare metal or sand blasted. They all have their place, it will be up to you to decide which procedure works best for you on that particular application. Post some pics, and good luck.

[sf38a1]

Ive use the Aircraft remover they sell at Wally world.I have use it to soften the stubborn hard paint on the hood and doors on the m715. Then I sandblasted them .I have found that the stripper will speed up the blasting process. The stripper sells for around $7.00 a spray can.

[randyscycle]

Do be careful with chemical strippers.

The main problem I have had with them is that you must find a way to neutralize any leftover residue. If you cannot, it will come back to haunt you in the future. Nothing like a nice paintjob lifting because of adhesion problems.

This isn't such a big issue on flat panels like the hood or doors, but things with seams and crevices like the bed, fender flares, and other like items, must be carefully attended to after appication of the remover and old paint.

I am also not a fan of using water on bare steel before you paint it. The idea is to keep everything as dry as possible.

One last point to make: Most chemicals still won't remove paint "easily" You will still need to sand and clean afterward anyway, so to me its an added step, and generally you have to use several applications of paint remover.

I still go the old D.A. and paper route, or sandblast, for all my paint removal situations.

[Barrman]

I have also tried most of the stripper solutions out there and got nothing but a big mess to clean up.

Sermis sand blasted his entire M35 in a week or two.

I spent an entire weekend with a D/A and a box of 60 grit paper to strip a M35 door and hood.

This is my best solution now. Hmm, I can't find it this morning on the Harbor Freight site. Need the exact part number. I will find it at home tonight. Basically, it is a grinder version of #94015. I did both sides of a door and both sides of both front fenders in about 5 hours Friday afternoon. The fastest thing I have come across yet.

[brute4c]

Whats a D/A?
(Yeah...I'm really that dim.)

[Barrman]

Dual/Action sander. It takes a 6" circular pad of sand paper. The pad can be turned the same rpm as the shaft which basically makes it a low powered grinder. Or, the pad can be kind of disconnected from the shaft which causes it to turn at little or no rpm, but it is now offset from the shaft which makes it more or less wiggle from side to side as it turns slowly. This gives you a finish without sanding marks if done right.

[rboltz]

Sand/abrasive blasting sounds good and it's what I had in mind when I bought the truck. Problem is, I have to buy both the blaster and a MUCH bigger compressor plus lots of abrasive. Cost; $1,500 + and it is something I will get little or no use from again. The other option is taking it someplace and having it done. Then, I have to put the truck back together to drive it there, dis-assemble it at the blaster's location, re-assemble it to drive it home, and then dis-assemble again for paint. I have also been told by the companies I talked to that sand blasting will stretch the metal and pock the steel finish. I know thats what happened when we sand blasted electric motor stators in my EE life. Best to use something other then sand and that will cost more.

I do not relish the messy strippers even if they are bio degradable and water soluble. I can imaging many applications of these. Will have to do some tests to see how the paint strippers work and make a decision. Thanks.

[Barrman]

Just as a reference, I spent $35.00 in supplies and 5 hours to do my door and fenders the other day. It is costing me about $12.00 per rim to get them to bare metal too. Just something to compare prices with.