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Thread: Rear Brake Bleeding

  1. #1

    Default Rear Brake Bleeding

    I have done a search on this but haven't found anything.

    How do you access the bleeder valve on the rear brakes? On my 715, the u-bolt and spring are very close to the bleeder and there doesn't seem to be enough room to get a bleeder wrench and bleeder hose attached.

    Any suggestions?

    Wart Hog

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,532

    Default

    You can get a wrnch in there..challenging but possible...another thing that has been done is to take off the brake hardware until you can unbolt the heel cylinder from the backing plate and move it away from the backing plate for more room...if you have that much give in the lines.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    long island new york
    Posts
    227

    Default

    I have been working on my rear brakes for a couple of weeks now.
    You can get the wrench in there. It may be easier if you have the tire off and the truck on jack stands. You can then reach in over the top and in to bleed it. I installed new brakes lines. The only way I could do that was by unbolting the backing plate so I could attached the brake line, similar to what Brute4c said.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,732

    Default

    Yeah, just lay on the tire and go from the top. I think the fronts are harder to get to for some reason.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  5. #5

    Default

    Stranman,

    Did you buy you brake lines premade or did you bend them yourself?

  6. #6

    Default

    Upon further inspection I found out why I was having problems.

    Sometime in the trucks life with the U.S. Forest Department, the left rear cylinder was replaced with ???? brand. There is an additional brass fitting that the brake line is attached to. This does not allow room for a wrench or bleeder tube.

    It would be this wheel that I looked at first. The piston size is 1 1/16" so I assumed it was original. The other three "look" right.

    I think I will replace it with the F350 version.

    Can anyone tell me if the F350 is a direct replacement (besides elongating the holes) or does it have any additional fittings? Thanks

    Wart Hog

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,532

    Default

    The F350 wheel cylinder is a direct replacement without any additional fittings...simply elongate the holes and bolt it in and hook up the brake line...been there, done that.

    I remember way back n the late 90's there was a member who found a wheel cylinder that required some kind of adapter fitting to connect to the stock brake line...sounds like what someone used on yours.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Fort Smith, Arkansas
    Posts
    911

    Default

    E-350

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,532

    Default

    Yes, E350....part numbers known to work:

    Tru torque W37262 and W37263

    Left and right...front and rear on the same ide are the same part.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    long island new york
    Posts
    227

    Default

    I bought a complete brake line set from classic tube

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