suspension setup ( mostly rear )

[Kamikaze12volts]

I have searched through the tech archives but still have somes questions ...

Suspension lift ....

Ok for the front ... springover and then reamed those knuckles to have the tie rod on top of them instead under , new longer draglink... but what about the brake lines .... do you need longer customs stainless lines .? What about driveline orientation ?? Does it need locking hub because of bad driveshaft angles ... need custom cv driveshaft in front ?

This was the easy part ....

Now for the rear ....

Since the axle in already in a springover situation, you have to flip the rear shackle from tension to compression. Then you will have to remove the oem front leaf mount and relocated them .... As far as i can understand you just have to flip the front leaf hanger upside down ... at least 3 holes will aligned ... and you must drill the fourth one. Then what about rear pinion angle ?? and brake lines issue ??

The job need to appear like if was come that way factory .. so maybe sometimes parts from other vehicle can retrofit on this one giving the look of oem parts .... or may have an NOS parts

I also read that if you want a good ride you can removed 2 leaves from the pack at each corner ... it will give less lift but better ride and flex ....

I'm looking to run 39½ Iroks that will see 99% street ... so i think this setup will be perfect, but i really need to know what is involved in parts doing that ... it will be a ONE shot week end mod.

Thanks a lot

[brute4c]

Anytime you do a lift you need to look at the brake lines...in the case of this truck, yes, you need longer ones. You can get them made in stainless or like stock.

The rest of the front is fine...no cv or driveshaft issues...you may need to open the hole through the crossmember that the driveshaft goes through.

Taking out 2 leaves on every corner works good...take out #1 and #3 OR #2 and #4 where you start counting from the shortest and go to the longest.

I have seen trucks that you wouldnt know it was done unless you KNEW it was done...basically....

I'm not sure this is a weekend job...from what I understand, its a bit of work...I think I would plan to spend more time on it...

[Kamikaze12volts]

Thanks ... but can someone give me somes pics of the rear ... the way the front hanger look like when installed in the flipped position ... and what about rear shackle angle ... you need to have good angle if you want the suspension working prperly ... if not all the spring will be absorbing the shocks instead of the movement with the shackle

Also ... whay about the shocks .... need only to relocate the axles mounts or better to have new longer one installed ?

[brute4c]

You may find this thread of help:
http://m715zone.com/vb/showthread.php?t=6631

I found this on our old temp site...its about the new spring perches you will need for the front axle:

I know I've seen the pads in the Speedway catalog, for 3" axle tubes. At Speedway, 12.95 for weld on, 24.95 for clamp on. I wouldn't trust the clamp on ones
though. Their number is 1-402-323-3200 for orders, part number 545-85090 for the welded ones. Request their catalogs too, tons of stuff but make sure you get
the racing one and the street rod one.
from chris 22 Jan 02

The Dana 60 axle tube is the same diameter as the Dana 44 as well. So spring perches will be the same if you get them from a Chevy or Dodge with the Dana 44
front axle. Well, not the same, but will work just fine.
from Froadin com #5286 12/7/99

I used Mr. Gasket spring perches. Called "Rear Housing Spring Pads" Part# 6280. This fits all Dana 60 and 12 bolt 3" diameter housings. I just left my old perches
on. This way it was easier, I didn't have to risk weakening my axle housing from excess heat, and I can revert to the under style if I wanted to (I'm not sure why!)
Hope you have a pickle fork!!!
from jeepclown #4052 9/22/99
---------------------------------------------------------------

[Kamikaze12volts]

Wow thanks a lot ... does anyone have other pics for the back .... ?? The front will be pretty easy compare to the rear ...

[saxon]

Chrysler/jeep has a heavy stamped weld on unit (pair) of perches for under $10.00, I'm at work so I can't get the # right now, but I used them for the front and rear, you'll have to take some of the radius out of the wings for the bigger rear axle. Go to the dealer parts copunter and they will probably know the ones.

[Kamikaze12volts]

finding part is not a problem since i already modify somes véhicle ... i'm not a newbie in that domain .... But by experience .... you must have good shackle angle .... it made the ride run smooth and nice .... if you .. you will hate your ride !! My biggerst concern was if you flip the front hanger , reverse the shackle ... leaving the stock shackle ... does it have the righ angle

With a street driven truck you want the shackle to sit between 50* to 60* from the horizontal.

Or you have to change those shackles ??... remember that i will remove two leaves from the pack .... If someone can post a picture of his work ......... THANKS

[Jed]

I didn't go to all that trouble when I lifted the rear, I just used a 4" block with some new u-bolts and I was done.

[Doug]

Rear axle shackle angle doesn't change by a measurable amount other than it's upside down. Without measuring, I'd guess it at a little more than 50*-60*...pulling some springs out would (in theory, maybe not in reality) bring it a little closer to those numbers.


No matter what you do, a M715 isn't going to ride like a 1/2 ton chevy unless you completely replace the springs.

[Hammer]

Not the best picture, but you can see the mount flipped over.

Btw, all four holes match up. It's the BIG hole that goes through the frame for the stud itself that you have to cut. It's very easy though, there is a plat under the bracket that you just flip upside down and mark for the hole.