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Thread: Starting on the body and brakes.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Lumberton, North Carolina
    Posts
    25

    Default Starting on the body and brakes.

    I've got a lot of time on my hands right now. So decide to go ahead and starte on the old rusty body. Its going to be a tedious project. But the only thing side lining the M-715 is a leaking front drivers side brake. Plan on pulling the drum off this week, and see whats leaking. Wish me luck. Hopefully it won't take all of my money.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Lumberton, North Carolina
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Oh yeah, I hate my profile header says civilian. HOOAH! I havn't got my third stripe for nothing.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Port Orchard, Wash.
    Posts
    4,572

    Default

    Be sure to mark which drum goes on which corner. It apparently matters!
    -- Tim Taylor


  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Lumberton, North Carolina
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Will, right now it only looks like one drum is leaking. Just hoping its going to be a easy fix. Unlike my 79 J-10, which I still can't find where the rear brake fluide is going.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Binford View Post
    Be sure to mark which drum goes on which corner. It apparently matters!
    Even if you machine them?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,732

    Default

    You have to bolt the hub into the brake lathe and then the drum to the hub to get them turned in most cases. Several of us have found that using one hub to turn all 4 drums gives you a case of the bobble head stops afterwards.

    This happened to me after my students and I had turned my drums with one hub as the mount. We did it again with the same hub and had tremendous run out on the drums we had just turned a day or so before. I had them put a hub on the lathe, mount the matching drum in all three possible ways and measure the run out. The location with the least run out was marked on the drum and hub and then the drum was turned. We did this with each drum and hub all around the truck and the drums/hubs from my spare set of axles.

    As long as I line the marks up, I have smooth brakes. I can feel it if they are not on the correct bolt.

    We did the same with Agengr's truck a month or so ago and had good success.

    I would suggest treating the drum/hub as an assembly that needs to be kept together and marked as to which of the 3 different ways it can go together.

    Your results may vary. That is just my experience.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Huntingtown,Md.
    Posts
    444

    Default

    Change the things to disk!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Barrman View Post
    You have to bolt the hub into the brake lathe and then the drum to the hub to get them turned in most cases. Several of us have found that using one hub to turn all 4 drums gives you a case of the bobble head stops afterwards.

    This happened to me after my students and I had turned my drums with one hub as the mount. We did it again with the same hub and had tremendous run out on the drums we had just turned a day or so before. I had them put a hub on the lathe, mount the matching drum in all three possible ways and measure the run out. The location with the least run out was marked on the drum and hub and then the drum was turned. We did this with each drum and hub all around the truck and the drums/hubs from my spare set of axles.

    As long as I line the marks up, I have smooth brakes. I can feel it if they are not on the correct bolt.

    We did the same with Agengr's truck a month or so ago and had good success.

    I would suggest treating the drum/hub as an assembly that needs to be kept together and marked as to which of the 3 different ways it can go together.

    Your results may vary. That is just my experience.
    Makes good sense, as they would seem to be sort of mated to their respective hubs. I kept mine in the same place, but I turned them one at a time, as I serviced them, so swapping wasn't an issue.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Lumberton, North Carolina
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Hearing this for the first time.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,529

    Default

    The manual actually states that the drum and hub should remain indexed to each other...

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