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Thread: Tornado Oil Grade

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cornwall, ON, Canada
    Posts
    226

    Default Tornado Oil Grade

    I just recently purchased my first M715 and I want to change all the fluids. I want to confirm the right grade of engine oil to use. I looked at the Lubrication Manual on this site but I don't know what the military spec oil translates into. Would regular 10W30 be sufficient?

    Thanks for your help in advance...this website is a great resource for a newbie like me.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    New Jersey by Philadelphia
    Posts
    282

    Default

    I have used 10-40 as a minimum...and I always add one quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer; that stuff is great!
    I have even used 20W-50 with good results.
    I am sure back in the day straight 30W was used...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,731

    Default

    Being where you are, I would go with 10W-30 or lighter for winter and the same for your not so hot or long summers. Just install a Wix filter and keep it full.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cornwall, ON, Canada
    Posts
    226

    Default

    Thanks guys! I won't be driving this beauty in the winter at all and it will only see sunny days during the fairer months.

    I picked up a Napa Gold oil filter and air element yesterday with the part numbers I found here. I was a little shocked when I didn't find an air element in the cannister yesterday. DOH!

    Once I solve a little turn signal/brake/light wiring issue it will be getting a safety, appraisal, insured and then hopefully registered and plated. I can't wait to drive into town with this beast.

  5. #5

    Default

    Orignially in 1967 the army used regular 30W. Many members have gone with 10W-30 which seems to be a very good modern replacement.
    Zone holster maker

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,524

    Default

    Here in north-central Wisconsin, I run 5W30 in the winter and 10W30 in the summer...works great.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cornwall, ON, Canada
    Posts
    226

    Default

    Great 10W30 it is then! Any recommended brands? I run Mobil1 synthetic in my 2000 TJ because of the offroading I do.

    I imagine the regular stuff would be sufficient but should I add some Lucas Oil stuff to help the seals? Then engine smokes for a while when I start it up.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cornwall, ON, Canada
    Posts
    226

    Default

    Well I threw in some concentrated carburator cleaner, installed a new air filter, changed the oil (most of which dumped onto my garage floor) and installed a new oil filter.

    I went with 10W30 and what I notice is a lot of oil spattering out of the tailpipe. I don't know how much, if any was coming out before, but a little puddle was forming under the tailpipe and there was spatter on my garage wall.

    I'm thinking of draining a bit of the oil and adding some Lucas for the time being in hopes of helping the problem. Sounds like I might want to investigate the valve guide seals after reading another hot thread right now.

    Any other thoughts/suggestions? Thanks.

    BTW, are there any good repair manuals for the Tornado engine?

  9. #9

    Default

    the mil manual cover all the repairs for that engine, see the manuals link on the page header. if you have a puddle coming out of you tail pipe it must be condensation it gets colored by the inside of the pipes,(it forms and collects in the muffler if you look at a modern muffler it usually has a tiny hole drilled in the bottom back of it to let it out so it doesnt spray out the tailpipe) but for that much oil to get all the way to the tailpipe is almost impossible for a whole variety of reasons, most of the oil you see would be in the form of blue smoke. and yes the valve guide seals are always a major culprit on a engine as old as these the rubber in the seals just couldnt be any good after so much time in such an enviroment.
    68 M-715 MVPA #2710

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,524

    Default

    Agreed on the pipe stuff...condensate not oil.

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