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Thread: Gillepsie Paint Reducer?

  1. #1

    Default Gillepsie Paint Reducer?

    I received my Gillepsie paint and primer the other day and I asked them what to redude the paint with and they said Xylene or Mineral Spirits.

    Is one better than the other and do I use the same reduction percentages and reducer for the primer?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    west central wisconsin
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    315

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    Go to [U]Army Jeep parts[U] website and look under paint,there are all the things you naad to know about the paint.

    DJ

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Silver Lake Sand Dunes MI
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    Default

    I have used the recomendations from Army Jeep Parts with great success.

    "AJP recommends the reduction of Gillespie Coatings with a
    SYNTHETIC ENAMEL REDUCER. This is accomplished at a ratio of 2:1,
    paint to reducer. Most brands are fine, such as NAPA or PPG, etc; just as
    long as its a SYNTHETIC ENAMEL REDUCER."

    It sprays real nice and coats good and even using 3 light coats instead of trying to put it on heavy.

    Dave
    1967 Kaiser Jeep M715 weapons carrier:http://www.davidallenracing.com/M715.htm
    1967 Kaiser Jeep M35a2 2.5 ton cargo truck: http://www.davidallenracing.com/M35A2.htm
    1968 M51 Inflatable Chemical Shelter System http://www.davidallenracing.com/M51.htm
    Delta Team Decals: http://www.i2k.com/~schwarzd/

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    New Jersey by Philadelphia
    Posts
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    I buy LIMCO Reducer - they have 3 kinds, fast for cold weather, medium for average temperatrures, and slow for hot temperatures. I pay about $21.00 a gallon for it and couldn't be happier. Just ask for synthetic enamel reducer in the Limco line - its a lower priced reducer but works great with Gillespie - I speak from experience!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    KINGSPORT, TN.
    Posts
    229

    Default

    YOU dont need to reduce it. i,ve sprayed it straight out of the can a bunch of time. over 100 gals. worth. if you thin it you,ll regret it.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Port Orchard, Wash.
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    Now I've heard it all! I've heard from 2:1 to completely undiluted and all have reported excellent results. So I'm betting you don't have to worry too much about how much you dilute the stuff.
    -- Tim Taylor


  7. #7

    Default

    Reducing or thinning is not always necessary for most paints. Epoxies, urethanes etc do need hardeners, activators, reactive reducers to catalyze them.
    "Thinning"is usually necessary in order to make a paint sprayable or to allow easier brushing etc. The biggest factor to consider when thinning/reducing is the understanding that thicker coatings need the surface to be prepped with coarser grits (320) and thinner coatings, finer grit sandpaper (400 or 600). Thick paint will bridge the scratches of 400 or 600 grit paper. Therefor poor adheasion. This is why we use 80 grit and 220 with thick primers. Epoxies will usually do fine with 220 for prep. Basically your goal is to use the coarsest paper that wont show scratches in the final finish.
    Thank god we use flat paints on the M715!!!!
    Flat paints make everyone a pro. LOL
    Last edited by TheWarTapes; October 12th, 2007 at 10:23 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Washington State
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    I've used Xylene and mineral spirits both. The mineral spirits will take a little longer to dry. I only thin about 10 percent to spray. My paint job has turned out just fine.

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BCOWANWHEELS View Post
    YOU dont need to reduce it. i,ve sprayed it straight out of the can a bunch of time. over 100 gals. worth. if you thin it you,ll regret it.
    Why would I regret it?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    New Jersey by Philadelphia
    Posts
    282

    Default

    I've thinned it as stated on the Gillespie Cans 2-1 and love it so much it makes my heart pitter patter

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