Scott,

I have done both installs.

The Front

If all the nuts are off the studs, the hub plate should come off. You are going to have to replace the studs with bolts, so go ahead and pull the studs out now. Then, a "light" tap with a hammer sideways will release the gasket holding the plate on. Clean everything real well and just use RTV instead of the new paper gasket that came with the Selectro hubs. I also found it very helpfull to run a tap through each of the stud holes before I screwed new grade 8 bolts in.

The Rear

The conical shaped locators on the outer flanges will pop out if a good solid hammer blow is made to the middle of the flange. You got them out though.

Once you have the axle shafts pulled and the carrier bearing caps off, the manual says to use a case spreader. Notice those big circular indentions on each side of the diff housing? That is where the spreader goes. I looked into buying one and the cheapest I found was $355.

Your next best option and what many if not most of us here have done is use a pry bar. With the pinion held still (transmission in gear, e-brake on, big pipe wrench against the ground) gently pry on the teeth of the ring gear. It will walk its way out. Be ready to catch it. It is a lot heavier than you think it will be. Use the same bearings and caps on each side going back together. Walk the ring gear back in with just your hands. If you are using the stock bearing cap bolts, don't torque them to more than 80-85. They stretch. Mine are at 85 and have survived behind my big block for 3 years now.

Enjoy the ability to "throttle steer" your truck when you are done. The lower the air pressure, the more you can do it.