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Thread: cooling trans question????

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    kansas city, mo
    Posts
    24

    Default cooling trans question????

    ok fellas, ? #2 for mr. turttle,

    this semister is my last for school. i have taken the turttle there and i'm finishing up several projects on it. the lockers are in and the new carb is running great. but i've had alot of problems with the trans puking out trans fluid from the dipstick. it doesn't shift the greatest and i've jacket around with the modulator valve for several days. i wasn't for sure what would be causing this so i dropped the pan and found all kinds of carniage. lots of metal material and burnt fluid. now was a better time than any to rebuild it if i needed to.
    so after dropping the trans i have come to the conclusion that the trans radiator that i bought from b&m is probably the culpriate.... i thought it was going to be big enough to cool the th400 but i'm having 2nd thoughts.... i have an aftermarket radiator from griffin and it does not have any trans cooling addapters to help prevent this again. so i was wondering what, if any, are you guys using to cool your trans????
    i thought about a condensor from a big ford or chevy and using it... i believe that as long as it is a cross flow cooler it would be fine.... what suggestions do you all have....

    thanks....

    soupy

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    Whatever you use, stuff the biggest one you can find in there!!!
    Run a gauge and monitor the temp...try to keep it under 200 all the time and the thing will live forever.
    Use electric fans if you have to...if you do a lot of low speed driving...especially combined with high rpms...you will need one or more.

    I have seen AC condensors used...as long as its in good shape when it goes in and is clean inside.


    Make sure it gets all the clean air it can too...mount it in front of everything else.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    kansas city, mo
    Posts
    24

    Default

    has anyone used a trans temp before? where would you connect it to? on the side of the trans pan?

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by soupy View Post
    ok fellas, ...what suggestions do you all have....
    soupy
    Let's see, I would suggest a T-98, SM465, NP435 or NV4500 and dump the girlie tranny.

    Hey, take it easy.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    What I did on my auto in my full size van is to get a gauge and sender and then....

    I found which of the 2 stock cooler lines went to the cooler and which was the return...service manual told me that...

    Then I picked a spot as close to the trans as I could that allowed me to cut the line and add in a brass T fitting with hose barbs on the straight through runs...screwed the sender into the side of the T and cut the metal line and added in trans fluid safe hose and clamps to the metal line and the barbs on the T.

    I then took the lines off the radiator cooler and cut them in a place where they were convenient to head to the cooler and added hose and clamps from there to a thermal switch...then to the cooler.

    The thermal switch is a 4 port item that, when fluid comes to it, checks the temp...if it is below around 100-120 degrees, the fluid is cycled back to the trans without going to the cooler. This lets it heat up in very cold weather...like where I live and the temp never hits over 140 degrees all winter...
    When the temp reaches that level, then it opens a valve and lets it go to the cooler.


    The reason I put it in the out line to the cooler, it is telling me the max temp that the fluid reaches which is my priority info.

    One could put a 2nd one in the return line and see what it drops to...thus telling you to how efficient the cooler is at any time....overkill probably...


    One other thing that I didnt figure out till I was talking to someone else and all of a sudden it hit me....the sending unit wont "send" unless it is grounded...the hoses between the T fitting and the metal lines keep the sending unit from being grounded. I temporarily hose clamped a wire onto the T in the field...poof....it worked. I have since soldered it on.


    Let me know if I can be more help.

  6. #6

    Default

    I've got a built 4L60 with several thousand miles on it. It has a lockup kit and cools through a dual electric fan Ron Davis radiator with internal auto trans cooler and also in series through an additional cooler in front of the radiator. The gauge range is from 140 to 320 and I NEVER see the needle move off the peg, even when pulling a mountain in the middle of July and the big block's running at 230. Wasn't sure the gauge was working properly but have confirmed that it is. Redundancy pays when it comes to cooling... welded a bung for the temp sender into the side of the trans pan.

    I have an SM465 in a '65 Wagoneer and it downshifts like sh*t- I like for my girlfriend to be able to drive the M725 easily on long road trips...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    kansas city, mo
    Posts
    24

    Default

    ok, well i'll look at both ideas then... thanks.... sure i can find something here at the auto store...

    soupy

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