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Thread: Pics of my completed E brake

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Springdale, Arkansas
    Posts
    1,431

    Default Pics of my completed E brake

    Hey all, sorry it's taken so long to complete this bit of the project but there were delays and more delays from the machine shop and waiting for parts etc.
    I finally got the ebrake done! Glad of it too! This has been one of the bigger PITA's so far for me. I had to come up with an idea and through looking comparing and much fabrication I arrived with this end result. Now once again I'd like to reiterate that I'm no design engineer nor have I got the one and only way to do this but it's what I did and I think it'll work, time will tell.

    This first picture is of the relined brake band mounted to the foot piece which is mounted to the np205, the foot piece or base first had to be machined to fit the bearing extrusion. I doped it with "Mega-Black" and a paper seal and smoked it down onto the case. After relining the band with the brass rivets, I slid it onto the foot and that looks like this:



    Next I ordered a flange with a 5 1/2" blank on the end from Tom Woods Custom Driveshafts in Ogden, Utah. It cost $80 and fit like a glove. I took it and the e brake drum down to the machine shop explained how I wanted it all to line up and they proceeded to drill several holes, surfaced a pilot into the backside of the flange just to keep the drum centered. It looks like this:

    Last edited by brute4c; April 21st, 2007 at 03:37 AM. Reason: pic links

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Springdale, Arkansas
    Posts
    1,431

    Default Okay heres some more

    Another shot of the flange, come to find out a dodge 32 flange is the same as a gm 32 flange according to Tom Woods and my local driveshaft shop.






    Next is a shot of the flange and drum installed:


    Looks good except...I didn't allow space for the retaining nut on the output shaft where the ujoint flange bolts to the output flange so I had to get this spacer made out of 1/4" mild steel



    So after all that was machined and fitted, it bolted all together and here it is:





    BTW the spicer 2-4-4191 yokes are exactly what worked for fitting the 1310 ujoints to the 32 spline output shafts on the case! Thanks for those #'s.


    This last is a pic of the shortshaft with a 1310 on the back and a 1350 in the front to mate with the sm465 yoke...Rube Goldberg at it's best!




    Next I have to fab the mounting for the shifters and brake handle. It's been so long since I took them off I can't remember how they went on, anybody can post pics of thier work would be a huge help.
    Last edited by brute4c; April 21st, 2007 at 03:36 AM. Reason: pic links

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    northern Arizona
    Posts
    1,025

    Default

    man, that looks waaay too nice to be on a mil truck - you better ship it to me for safety purposes.
    67 M725 67 M715 68 M715

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fng View Post
    That looks great. So, can you supply me with the short list that I can take to the hardware store and get all the stuff I need to do mine?

    How much $ you got in that total set-up?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Springdale, Arkansas
    Posts
    1,431

    Default

    Okay, Here's the list:
    1. Tom Woods Driveshaft, Ogden, Utah
    Flange, 32 spline 5 1/2" disc, undrilled $80

    2. Larry's driveshaft (local shop)
    1310 Bolt on Ujoint Flange (spicer) $32
    1310 BruteForce Ujoint $17
    Spicer 2-4-4191 (1310, 32spline) Yoke (2ea.) $96

    3. Northwest Ark. Precision Machine
    8 holes drilled, 4 threaded,
    Rear face of flange milled to produce pilot for centering
    on brake drum,
    Drum redrilled for match to other components $100

    3A. Spacer 1/4" to accomodate protruding nut from output shaft,
    plus 2 locating pins for alignment and anti rotation $40

    4. Brake reline kit from ebay $25

    Thats about it but you should allow an extra $50 for hardware, threadlocker, gas during all the trips back and forth to the machine shop, etc,etc oh yeah and shipping adds a few bucks to the total too. So overall I guess I'm into this for a small bundle, GEE, IMAGINE THAT.......I'm tellin' ya, when I get this thing done I'm gonna put it in a crate and only take it out to take pictures of it! I wont be able to afford any fuel for it with all that I've spent so far. Here's another pic of it completed :



    Hope this helps.....Tracy

  6. #6

    Default

    That looks awesome! Very nice and clean. Question for you: what is the spacer behind the 4-bolt u-joint yoke for?
    68 M-715
    67 M-725

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Springdale, Arkansas
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    1,431

    Default

    To allow for clearance of the retaining nut on the output shaft.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    KINGSPORT, TN.
    Posts
    229

    Default

    SO I GUESS THE 550.00 i charge for my kit isnt out of hand..... plus i turn the brake drum true and smooth, use kevlar linning material with no rivets and also no spacer is needed for the companion flange . nice job fng .
    p.s. drop the rear of trans a little for drive line trueness. jmo
    bob

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Springdale, Arkansas
    Posts
    1,431

    Default

    I spent about 450 I guess, give or take. Thanks for the tip on the drivline. I do have a little friction from the band while the unit is static...will that cause any problems while moving or will it "wear-in"?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Washington State
    Posts
    1,652

    Default

    Very nice, now what's next, pictures please.

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