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Thread: Truck won't start

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Mt. Prospect, Illinois 60056
    Posts
    2,299

    Default Truck won't start

    Well I guess my coil finally died. I left my ignition on and drained both new batteries this past winter. Recharged both new batteries and truck started right up. I thought I got lucky and didn't fry the coil. Over the last couple of months the truck started whenever I tried. Maybe 4 or 5 times. Had it out the last few days, and consider it a blessing is decided to die in the garage. Went to start it today, had plenty of juice, but nothing when I pushed the starter. Sound like the coil to you guys out there? I've got a new coil from A-1 Army Supply and pray it's a good one.
    militarypotts Spec/4 Military Police, Vietnam Era, "Does the noise in my head bother you? Welcome to the Twilight Zone!"

  2. #2

    Default

    Sure it's not just out of gas. Happens all the time to those of us that start the truck and run it without driving it. If it fires using starter fluid then the coil is ok. I like using carb cleaner like B-12 instead of starter fluid since it isn't as volatile.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Mt. Prospect, Illinois 60056
    Posts
    2,299

    Default

    No, their's nothing when I push the starter. No turning over at all. Just like as if the batteries were completly drained, except the guage is in the green, and the lights work fine. I was told before, that even if the coil appears to be OK, it'll probably fail after a few times of driving the truck. Can't think of anything else it might be. Can You?
    militarypotts Spec/4 Military Police, Vietnam Era, "Does the noise in my head bother you? Welcome to the Twilight Zone!"

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    467

    Default

    The coil won't prevent the engine from cranking... Check for a bad starter motor, bad starter switch, or loose wiring.

    --Randy

  5. #5

    Default

    Wiggle your foot on the starter button. Sometimes the button will not make contact when pushed at the wrong angle.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Mt. Prospect, Illinois 60056
    Posts
    2,299

    Default

    I'll give that a try today. Any suggestions on where to start? Does this appear to be a starter switch button problem, or maybe a starter itself? If so, where's the best place to locate either one?
    militarypotts Spec/4 Military Police, Vietnam Era, "Does the noise in my head bother you? Welcome to the Twilight Zone!"

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SE Portland,Oregon
    Posts
    120

    Default

    Take off all the battery connections and clean them with a wire brush then check the battery water level and voltage and recharge them if less than 12.5 volts each. If that doesn't do the trick, use a test light and check to see if your getting power to the starter while you have someone step on the starter switch for you. If no power, Check, clean and tighten the connections at the starter switch and starter and check them all with a test light with the starter button depressed. If that all checks out good, it's probably time for a starter. Your problem is definitely not coil related. If your coil was bad, it would still turn over fine but have weak or no spark.

  8. #8

    Default

    I was going to say, a volt meter or test light will be your friend. I'd check for power at the switch and then power at the starter when the switch is pressed. Also, does the gauge indicate acceptable voltage while you press the switch? Batteries can sometimes show a "good" charge, but dump as soon as you try to turn the engine over. It shouldn't be too hard to figure out if it is one or the other, but it will require some crawling around (make sure the truck is in neutral and the wheels are chocked!). A quick check is to run a jumper wire across the switch or bypass the switch and jump the starter... If you can't find someone to help, you could unbolt the starter switch and then you could test it and press it at the same time. I could be wrong, but I don't see any reason why you couldn't run an actual jumper cable from the positive battery terminal to the positive terminal on the starter. I'd wait until someone else chimes in because I'm not positive on the setup since someone put an aftermarket solenoid in mine. The jumper trick or screwdriver across the solenoid has worked for me in the past though. I don't know about the factory wiring on this either, but is it safe to assume the master switch is ok if the lights work? Again I have a keyed ignition so I'm not sure if the lights tie into that switch or not.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Mt. Prospect, Illinois 60056
    Posts
    2,299

    Default

    As far as the batteries go, their two brand new Interstates with about two hours of use on them. I guess I'll start at the floor starter switch. The voltage gauge on the dash reads strong and in the green. I wonder how often floor switches go bad?
    militarypotts Spec/4 Military Police, Vietnam Era, "Does the noise in my head bother you? Welcome to the Twilight Zone!"

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    467

    Default

    Before pulling the switch, check for power at the starter when you press the switch. It will isolate the problem pretty quickly. Get a test light with a alligator clip ground, clip it on the post on the starter, wedge it up near the top of the hood where the probe has a good ground (or use a random test lead), and see if it lights when you press on the switch. If it lights when you step on the switch, the starter motor is bad. If it doesn't light, the switch or wiring is bad.

    Also make sure the dash gauge stays in the green. If the gauge drops when you step on the switch, the batteries or battery wiring is bad.

    The switches often need a bit of wiggling as they age, so try that as well...

    --Randy

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