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Thread: Aftermarket wiring harness turn signal switch questions.

  1. #1

    Default Aftermarket wiring harness turn signal switch questions.

    Ok I have been planning on rewiring the M715 for a while and I am planning on starting it this weekend (using an aftermarket kit). I don't think I will have a real issue with anything other than the turn signal switch. It has the cannon plug on it and I don't have a clue why there would be that many wires running in that thing. I looked in the operators manual and maintenance manual and I couldn't find anything on it. The light switch is another possible problem area as well. If there is a schematic somewhere that I am not locating and someone could link it I would appreciate it.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
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    11,520

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    I dont have the breakdown for the later style turn signal switch off hand....but most of the rest is on this page:

    http://www.m715zone.com/vb/view.php?pg=early_harness


    I did a conversion from the early style to late style setups and documented it with the wiring changes that were needed...might help...

    http://www.m715zone.com/vb/view.php?...signal_convert
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  3. #3

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    Thanks for the info that should get me going.. Looks like my truck has the later model turn signal switch on it already.

  4. #4

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    Wiring the old harness into the new was going along well (although I found some differences in the wires shown and the wires giving off power with the switch engaged top and bottom) until I got to the right side turn signals. I only have one wire powering up while the switch is on. There are three wires left at this point that are not connected and another of them should be powering up. Would it be too much to power both front and rear turn signals off one wire? I plan to take the tape off the section of harness I am using and look for any broken wires. I have a feeling its not passing through the switch though.

    I haven't got the brake lights to come on yet but I have a feeling that they like the turn signal will only work while the switch is on. And I didn't try them again last night.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

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    Are you still using the 3 lever switch? When I rewired my truck last summer, I came across 3 3 lever switches that had no power to the brake light switch. Basically wires 75 and 75A had no power at positions A and K.

    Concerning your single wire right blinker. I won't comment because I have no clue what else you have and what is hooked to what. Give us a little more info please.
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  6. #6

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    I am still using the 3 lever switch. The turn signal switch gets 12 volts from a keyed source from the aftermarket fuse panel. It is then supposed to distribute power to the turn signals. Using a meter I am getting 11 to 7 volts when the switch is engaged up or down to 2 wires one way and 1 wire the other way. The 3 lever switch shouldn't have anything to do with the turn signals should it?


    As far as the 3 lever switch goes I have power to the parking lights and tail lights with the lower left switch in park and service drive on the upper right. Headlights come on when I move the park switch to off...

    I hadn't spliced A and K together yet I tried getting brakes by hooking up one or the other to the wire coming out of the the turn signal switch which is not 22 on mine (it has power on it when I throw the turn signal).

    I know I am not to good at explaining this but I was out in the cab at midnight wiring on the truck so it's not real clear in my head. I just know there should be another wire with power coming from that turn signal switch....

  7. #7

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    Ok here is some more information... I have a p/n m62069/1-2-11613632 NSN2590-00-808-6072 D.C. Electronics, INC. Part NO. DCE 8300 turn signal switch. I opened it up and the cam looks good and all the contact look decent on the board (works on a rotating cam copper contacts for switching and isolating the brake lights). I am trying to use this switch sans the control box as there is a flasher circuit in the aftermarket wiring harness that I have with provisions for flasher. There is 4 wires for the turn signals RF,RR,LF,LR and a turn signal switch power wire from the fuse block. There is also 2 brake light wires one of which we will call it #17 that has power on it and runs to the brake switch and another wire #18 that alos runs to the brake switch and back to the dash to be hooked to to turn signal switch.

    There are 8 pins/wires running out of the turn signal switch that all have # corresponding to the pin that they run from although two were removed when the forestry service eliminated the control box by wiring in 1 flasher relay.

    I read brute's conversion and printed out his chart for the flasher set up. I am unsure if mine is the same model as his and I have doubts because if I wire it the way his information shows it doesn't work right (one side works and the brake wire #22 that is supposed to have signal coming in from the switch #18 that I mentioned above has intermittant power with the switch in the down position).

    I found another wiring diagram for the M37 which lists A as power to RF turn signal and in the information on Brute's conversion A is power to the switch. I think there are a couple of other differences as well but it has similarities with the # for each wire on a few.http://webs.lanset.com/buzz/Mturnsig.html

    My turn signal however looks like the one that Brute has and not like the one on the M37 board that they are discussing. I would really like to keep this switch instead of buying another one but with the mods by the forestry service and my inability to figure the durn thing out I may have to go another direction. I am going to hook up some disconnects to each of the wires and see if I can get it to work that way. Any insight is appreciated, I know I am doing something custom but you would think a turn signal switch is a turn signal switch and could be made to work with this aftermarket harness.....

  8. #8

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    Here is some info on the inside of the new solid-state turn-signal switch. Be sure to check the link below for testing.

    Hope it helps you diagnose what is going on.



    Left turn


    Right turn


    Hazard




    The link below gives information on continuity testing the switch in its various states of operation.

    http://tpub.com/content/hummer/TM-9-...0-20-1_495.htm

    The sources for this info are:

    http://tpub.com/content/hummer/TM-9-2320-280-20-1/

    http://www.hummerknowledgebase.com/

  9. #9

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    Ok I got it working... I ohm'ed out each leg with the correspoding pin to make sure that they were labeled correctly. Then I put the switch in each position and ohm'ed that. With it in hazard mode I got 5 wires that were all ohm'ed out so I knew one of them had to be power in... It turned out that the FR,RR,LF,LR were all the same as the schematic from the link above. The power going in ended up being H which is different than Brute's switch and the switch listed in the manuals (brute's was A I belive and the manual was G). Anyways I now have all flashers and brake lights to include hazards working again as well as high and low beam headlights. I still have to wire the big cannon plug to the harness but I have it sorted out (at least it works although the switch positions don't make much sense to me).

    Thanks for the help people.

  10. #10

    Default

    Glad you got it working!!

    Nice find on the above M37 link. It gives a very good view and explanation to the theory of operation.

    I am posting the image, from that link, because IMHO it adds more visual information useful to this thread.

    Cheers


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