Motor/Trans Install

[fng]

You know, I've done alot of looking around for this but the most useful info I've found so far was all the stuff I found on www.novak-adapt.com. I've seen a bit here, a picture there a paragraph by some very helpful zoners but all in all I'd have to say so far there hasn't been one clear, consice body of knowledge focused on step by step installation. Bummer, I tend to approach technical work with a checklist type mentality and I wish I could find a book or instruction manual that I could follow the proceedure's in an orderly fashion.
How 'bout you guys that have done this before, anything informative would help, especially on motor mount fabrication, and alignment of tranny vs. stock mount locations. I just can't bring myself to hack off the factory frame horns and my verticle welding techniques aren't the best in the world, so it looks like bolt in mounts for me. Have you got any more detailed info on the "Spicer" mounts? I'd like to have a template of those and a little more info on the install....(thanks for the earlier posts Barrman)
I just don't want some cobbled up looking, structurally deficient, looks like it's gonna break soon install.
The engine is attached to the tranny and just hanging in a hoist above the frame in my two car garage, I've lowered it a couple of times into position to check for fitment and..... mannnn!....it's gonna take some kind o' fabbin skills to get this one right. And believe me I don't wanna have to do this again ever. I've got the "get it right the first time" mindset.
I know I've asked about this all before and probably should just grow a pair and go for it but like I said, this isn't something I just want to stab together and hope it works.
Thanks everyone for the help and info and I promise I'm really not retarded.haha
All this info is for a sbc/sm465

[fng]

Addendum to above:
I am leaning towrds the Spicer Plate method, but as it was described to me earlier I sould use some 4" x 1/4" plate. OK, got that part. But, does the plate go next to the block-then to the factory motor mount-then to the frame or just the reverse? AND...wouldn't it be more useful to make the plate more "T" shaped or should I say "L" shaped to allow for more forward placement on the horns, thus allowing for more room at the firewall?
Next, what about my 40 year old rubber mounts? What would serve as a good replacement for them?
Oh hell...should I just pop the 125 for the Novak bolt ins and be done with it? Hate to spent that kind of money for a 10 dollar fix!

[Barrman]

Doug or Tacoma might have pictures of Spicers plates. I know Doug made a set for himself. I don't have them here, but I made pictures of mine before I put them on and should still have them on my home computer. I will look tonight. Spicers Yahoo picture site isn't working for me anymore, so I don't have any of his pictures to show you.

[sermis]

I used a SBC 350 and adapter kit from Novak or Advanced adapters, don't remember which. I got motor mounts from them also. Frame mounts stayed in the original location. Motor mounts mounted the SBC (original Location) to the stock frame mounts (original location). Using the T98 and adapter plate I did not have to redo the jack shaft as the rear of the trans was mounted in the original location. I am not sure on the SM465 if it is longer or shorter or the same. Install the motor and trans as a unit. You could fab motor mounts or buy them from Novak. Make a rear trans cross member if the original will not support the new trans. I think the rear trans mount will be moved forward. Measure the distance for the jack shaft, build it and install. The firewall will need to be dimpled in just a little to clear the SBC heads. It’s really not hard. Keeping the T98 was even easier.

[Barrman]

I just read your addition.

It should be engine, plate, 230 rubber mount, frame horn.

I didn't know on mine either, so I made mine about 8" long. Going from the front SBC mount boss hole toward the flywheel on the engine. I then bolted mine to the engine and discovered a few things in the way like the water jacket drain plug and the pan mounted BBC oil dipstick. I cut those areas out and then mounted the exhaust manifolds to the engine. More clearance issues resulted. Once I cut those areas out, I went ahead and put the engine in. I had left the 230 mounts bolted to the frame and the engine with the plates on it just sat right on the mounts.

There just isn't a drop in bolt in set up. You are going to have to drill, grind and weld or at least beat something with a BFH no matter which way you go.

Once we find a bellhousing, my class is going to be putting a 350/3053A combo into Pistolnut's M715. I will have some more picures then.

[brute4c]

These are the "Spicer Plates":

[fng]

Very Very COOL! Thats just what I needed to see. Thanks, I am taking pic's as I go so someday I'll deluge this site with pics...

[brute4c]

Well...thanks for the warning...hopefully I will have time to build an ark.

Seriously...you want to do the write up on how to do this swap? That would be much appreciated!

[Barrman]

Those are pictures of the passenger side plate.

[Doug]

Having trouble finding my pics right ow, but I chose to have the engine set a touch futher back than Tom did. I'm running a SM420 and the shift tower is much further forward than the stock location...you want it back as far as you can get it and it's still not quite as much as you'd like.


Anyway, you can gain an inch over what tom's pic shows if you want.