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Thread: Disc Brakes Arrived!!!!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Northern Colorado
    Posts
    324

    Default Disc Brakes Arrived!!!!

    I just got my disc brake conversion kit from HeliTool! Nice, FAST shipping and everything was well packed. Those HUBS are HEAVY!!!

    I'm off to NAPA to get the hub socket and then will hit Harbor Freight for a 20 ton press.

    I need one, anyway, right? Plus, they're on sale AND I have a 15% off coupon...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    northern Arizona
    Posts
    1,025

    Default

    What did the disc kit cost you, if I can ask?

  3. #3

    Default

    I figured it up the other day... prices are on the uglytruckling website, plus a list of things like rotors and calipers to source locally....I figured it up at about 1426 for everything front and rear.
    DP

    Man invented the slowest form of transportation - the sailboat, Then decided to race them.

  4. #4

    Default



    Also if you can keep a running photo diary of the work in progress.
    Zone holster maker

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Northern Colorado
    Posts
    324

    Default

    The only pictures I could post would be the same of what you see on his website right now. Or I could post pictures of the nice pretty boxes the FedEx guy left at my door. <g>

    The prices are on his website. $600 + shipping from the left coast. Being in CO, I received it the same week. Ray has be in contact with me all the way and is excellent to deal with. A real nice guy.

    Calipers are about $110 EACH ($55+$55 core) and the least agressive pads were $24 for an entire set of 4. While I was there, I picked up the hub socket, too.

    Then you add bearings and seals and you see where this is going. I'm glad I'm only doing the fronts!

    FWIW, the calipers are HUGE compared to what I'm used to dealing with (FSJ's and the wife's Ford Mustang!). At least I'm getting my money's worth.

    I'm sure others will mention that for the same $$, you can REPLACE the front axle, but I'm partial to the stock look on the outside. That's just me.

    I'll be taking pictures along the way, so eventually it will all end up on my website. I'm going to try the FSJ master cylinder, too, since it is a disc/drum setup, too.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Washington State
    Posts
    1,652

    Default

    Keep us posted, I have installed the same setup, not yet running as I am building from the ground up, Hope to have it road worthy this summer.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    Winlock, WA
    Posts
    2,553

    Default

    Ray makes some great stuff!
    And is a great guy too!
    And the brakes will be huge, no doubt there.
    How do you like those THICK brackets of his?
    I went to his shop many years ago, and I can't say enough about the quality of his work. He doesn't believe in skimping, and really builds things well.
    All that being said, have you driven it yet? How do you like the feel?
    He used my front axle as the first test axle, but I never got to drive that setup And I am curious as to how well it handles now.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    KINGSPORT, TN.
    Posts
    229

    Default

    sounds like you never made em re-install the wheel studs

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Northern Colorado
    Posts
    324

    Default

    Bob, quite honestly, once he told me he had a kit, I forgot to ask him to press in studs.

    He sent me NOS hubs. I pounded out the old studs (put a nut on the end to protect the threads and hit em with a BFH) and I pressed them into the NOS hub. Worked perfectly. The rotor flange (ring that is welded to the hub and bolts to the rotor) has 6 holes in it that give you access to insert and press in the studs.

    In short, I used a bunch of deep well sockets to support the hub underneath and used another socket to press in the stud. I took pictures of this process and will post once I have completed the entire process.

    I spent Saturday running around getting the proper tools. When you go to Napa to get the 2 1/2" hub socket, make sure you DON'T GET the "rounded" hex socket. It's for a Ford axle of some sort and comes in a blister pack. The correct socket does not have the points "rounded".

    I also had to go BACK into town to get a 1/2" hex key to remove the rotors from the hub. They are shipped attached to the hub and they are hex cap screws. It was poor planning on my part, so I wasted a lot of time driving around looking for tools. Oh well.

    I was able to remove the inner hub seal without ruining it and it looks in good condition. That's good news, since it's about $50 FOR ONE.

    Both bearings look good, but they're much cheaper to replace, so I think I will replace those. The NOS hub has the race installed (or it is part of the hub), so I only need the bearing.

    Oh, and yes, I am impressed with the brackets and the overall quality of the entire package. Very nice and very "beefy".

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    KINGSPORT, TN.
    Posts
    229

    Default

    the rear hubs are worse than the fronts to get the studs in. i really dont know why he even removes them as there not in the way. maybe for safety while spinning them on the lathe

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