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Thread: The old 12v -vs- 24v debate...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Auburn, AL
    Posts
    251

    Default The old 12v -vs- 24v debate...

    Sorry guys... I started thinking again.

    I'm not a electrical junkie, so I'm asking. I'm planning on running LED lights on everything. Also, putting a splitter on the brake lights and having a magnetic bracket for additional/removable lights. Is the stock 14ga. wiring good for this? In 12v as well as 24v? I'm kind'a partial to the mil connectors and will use them when I rewire.

    Personally, I don't care wether it's 12v or 24v. I'm still going to have parts that need to be converted either way.

    Thanks,
    Snuffy

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    John,
    Mine is 12V and I like it that way. But, now that I have another military vehicle, I kind of wish I had gone through the trouble to make the M715 24V. Little things like jump starts and common bulbs between the two. Plus, I like the military connectors myself and have used them where I can on the M715. So, thinks like the horn are hard to make work without it looking like a rigged up part. B/O spot light is another item that is a lot easier with a 24V truck.

    By the way, the stock military wire is 12Gauge as far as I know. It will work fine with either voltage.

    But, trailer lights and electric brake controllers are a lot easier in 12V. I also have a radio and cruise control on my 715. Those would be harder to do with 24V.

    Do what you want with it. You already know that you are going to have to convert a few things either way you go.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  3. #3

    Default

    IMHO I think it is easier to keep the truck 24V than to switch over to 12V. I am going to assume that you have or are going to change the motor. If that is the case all you have to do is change the coil, alt, and possible the starter though it has been said on this board that 24V on a 12V starter is not a big deal (I have no actual experience with that so I'm not sure how true it is). The head lights, gagues, etc all stay the same. Now if you are planning to change the motor, change all the gagues, the head lights and the other lights on the truck and completely rewire it then might as well go the full nine yards and change to 12V. But in my mind then you might as well have bought a civilian truck!
    Zone holster maker

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    You summed it up better than me Joe. I started with a fire department converted 12V truck and have worked back to military wiring and a lot of 24V cmponents that work on 12V. Such as the solid state blinker system and small light buckets with 12V bulbs. All my trucks in the future are going to stay 24 or be converted to 24 if I can.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    Seems to me the stock wiring is 14 gauge on the wire itself but the insulation is extra thick so the outside is the same as 12 gauge wire....I have a piece somewhere that is marked...
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Auburn, AL
    Posts
    251

    Default

    I believe the wire is 14ga... from somewhere in the recesses of the memory banks. I was just concerned about the wires carrying too much juice (amps)with 12v, but that doesn't seem to be a major issue.

    The way I'm looking at it, (replacing the Tornado with a 6.9L International diesel) I have to have a starter rebuilt to take 24V and a converter for the radios. If I go 12v, I have to get everything (lights, guages, alt) flopped over to 12v. Replacing most everything, so it doesn't make a great deal difference money wise - But want to stay with the mil connections because it WILL SEE WATER in Arkansas! I'm a big fan of: 'If you don't have the money or the time to do it twice, do it right the first time.'

    I appreciate the input, guys.

    Snuffy

    BTW - Going to build a battery box to fit behind the seats. Figured I would use four 6v 'half' batteries from Optima and put them in series. Assured they will fit without issues that way. Not planning on breaking down the widows or removing the top, so...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    John, I have a 12V Optima behind my passenger seat and still have room for the window glass to stap in and the top frame if I had one. There is also room on the drivers side for another. I think I already have pictures of this at work and will post them tomorrow if I do. It will take about an hour to do it right now since I have a blistering 23.6kbps connection currently.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  8. #8

    Default

    Though I'm not familiar with other starters it is very easy to convert a GM 12v starter to 24v. My guages, lights and starter are all 24v with keeping as much of the original parts as possible but also running 12v for my injection on the TBI, and ignition parts. The wires are mostly 14ga. but use either 10ga. or 12ga. for the power to the on/off switch and a 6ga. wire from the alternator.

  9. #9

    Default

    If you do want to keep the truck 24 volt but want to run a few 12 volt accesories (heater, wipers, etc) what is the best way to do this? From what I've gathered on a few other posts you can either use a 24 volt to 12 volt converter, or use an extra battery and a 12 volt alternator. Is this correct? What are the pros/cons for each setup or is there a better way?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    If you use a converter, you are limited to the amps that unit puts out...I run one that is 20 amp cont./23 amp peak output...if you have a lot of 24 volt stuff running AND the 12 volt stuff, you could be overtaxing the 24 volt alternators' output and be drawing off the batteries too...

    If you run 2 batteries for 24 volt and a 3rd battery for 12 volt you need to run 24V and 12V alternators as well, more cost and complexity...but you can get alot more amps without leaning on the 24 volt stuff.
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

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