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Thread: my trailer hitch and brake mods

  1. #11

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    Look's like a would be factory job with better welds. LOL

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    KINGSPORT, TN.
    Posts
    229

    Default

    YES please post the hydro steer mod also. it might help somebody also.
    bob

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    KINGSPORT, TN.
    Posts
    229

    Default

    if anybody needs any help doing these mods just ask and i,ll help all i can.
    bob

    TIM ( BINFORD )
    Thanks so much for your help. i know it was alot of trouble for you and i just want to say thanks.
    bob

  4. #14

    Default

    What did you say you were building that hitch to hold?????

    I'd want that tied to the frame with some flanges before I trusted it with too much weight..... But that's easily done, and I REALLY like the behind-the-bumper rings for the safety chains. Looks good.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Springdale, Arkansas
    Posts
    1,431

    Default

    Thats one stout lookin' hitch Bob. Nice work and Yes I'd like to see the power steering pics too. Thanks........T

  6. #16

    Default

    I have some reservation about the welds on the pintle hook, it appears that it was welded with a wire feed. the weld puddles seem spaced too far apart which leads to crater cracks and they can propagate ( grow) and fail. also to weld cast steel in a heavy piece you need to preheat that part to 400 deg F and use a 7018 or a 8018c3 lo hi type eletrode other wise the weld will shrink faster than the base metal and crack behind the weld. mig welding also has a tendancy to cold lap and have a lack of fusion unless high amperages are used
    Dont get me wrong Im not knocking your work i just dont want your trailer to pass you up on the hiway.. id put some bolts in there just to be safe

    im not blowin smoke here i welded for 30+ years and an AWS ceritfied welding inspector and Instructor for 10 more

  7. #17

    Default

    I don't think the pintle hook is welded on. If it is done like the stock truck (which it looks like since the pics clearly show the back side of the pintle hook with the castle nut and cotter pin) then the outside neck is just a spacer that is welded to the bumper itself. The pintle hook should be free to rotate. So really there isn't any load associated with the weld.

    I'm sure Bob will be happy to comment on the structural integrity and quality of his welds.

    Nice bumper Bob. You're giving me more ideas on how I want to do mine.
    Last edited by Binford; January 21st, 2007 at 12:41 PM. Reason: Changed "rate" to "rotate"

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    KINGSPORT, TN.
    Posts
    229

    Default

    the pintle is not welded guys i removed the small plate on the outside of the rear crossmember, aprox. 4" x 6" . then cut a hole so my 1/2" hitch plate so it would fit over the stock pintle hitch mount. the hole was beveled about 1/2" all around the pintle mount then the rear x-member, my hitch plate and the stock pintle mount were all tied together with a deep penitrating weld. its also welded completely across the top ( beveled out first ) out to where its bolted where the bumper ettes start and all the bolts , nuts , washers , on each side are grade 8 with top lock nuts . all the rear gussets were beveled out befor welding for 100% penetration , the pintle completely rotates like stock & is fully greaseable from the rear. i had to install a 90 deg. grease zerk. reciever is 3" x 3" i.d., eye bolts for safety chain are grade 8 also .

  9. #19

    Default

    ok kewl.... i feel better now : - )

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Washington State
    Posts
    1,652

    Default

    I wish you had shown pics before I finished mine Bob, I may have done some things different. Great design, and it looks like it will plenty strong, and goes with the look of the truck very well.

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