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Thread: Help, how does the headlight switch screw on plug come apart?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    The cesspool of WA state
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    2,193

    Default Help, how does the headlight switch screw on plug come apart?

    I need to remove the rubber insert that holds all the pins. How in the heck does it come out. I have tried several things but no go. Does it come out the front? Or out the back which is what it looks like. I need to rewire my new harness into this plug. I am also interested in a source for the female pins. I was going to start with star electric... Anybody know these answers?
    Liz, covid, murdered 10/19/21

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,756

    Default

    Al,
    I tried taking a 3 lever apart years ago to clean it up. I could not get it fully apart or back together again. Very frustrating.

    I don’t think I have the truck side of the 3 lever with a foot of good wires. All of my cut up ones were flacking insulation before I replaced them. Try the surplus places as well.

    Don’t forget the brake light and blinker power go through the 3 lever.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  3. #3

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    Are you referring to the cannon plug for the head light switch? If so the rubber, otherwise known as a weather seal, does not come off for some manufacturers, the pins are either crimped or solder externally and then inserted into the back and locked in place. Depending on the manufacturer, the plug was made by various manufacturers each mildly different but the same when done, the weather seal does come off or is glued in place. The cap on the back puts pressure on the seal to bite the insulation and the wire to both seal it from water and provided mild wire support. To remove the pins you will need special extraction tools to not damage the pins. The pins are a size 12 if memory serves me correctly. I believe they are not designed to come out once seated. NSN 5935011799105
    https://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/elcocplfor3l.html

    https://eriksmilitarysurplus.com/liswadcafrma.html

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    The cesspool of WA state
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    Default

    Ok interesting.. I took both screw rings off the front and the backside retaining ring too. The rubber floats in the center body of the metal part of the plug. And the rubber part floats just a tad back and forth but it just won't come out. I have some pin extractions tools, I had better find them. I am not all the way unpacked from my move yet. I think if I can just extract the pins and replace them with new ones, that would be fine. So I will start looking for the female pins. Thanks for the size Dreadwater. And Tim I have all the electrical documentation printed out. All the pin outs on the 3 lever. It seemed easier years ago when I did fishermans truck (Todd). But I will make it happen. I appreciate you guys answering so quick. I have been working on the wiring all day.
    Liz, covid, murdered 10/19/21

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    The cesspool of WA state
    Posts
    2,193

    Default

    I am pleased to say that after digging through all the boxes for my truck that are still packed from my move, I found a new cannon plug for the headlight switch. It has all new terminals in it. This is a relief as it will be great to work with. Erik's military surplus sells them and apparently I had purchased one probably two years ago. Thank you for the help.
    Liz, covid, murdered 10/19/21

  6. #6

    Default

    Welcome. Try soaking in rubbing alcohol, that stuff a miracle liquid when i built these connectors.

  7. #7

    Default

    Any time, glad you figured something out.

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