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Thread: The longest build thread ever, at least it seems like it!

  1. #221

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    Thank you Glenn. I need it. I am getting down to the last items before tear down and paint.

    Eightyduece, when you say reservoir, do you mean the power steering pump reservoir? I saw some online diagrams that showed a separate little mini tank reservoir. I was planning on running the return from the steering box to the hydroboost essentially in a straight line and tee'ing off that line to the Power steering return. I was hoping that would do it.
    Also I had an extra small trans cooler. I was going to run the return through that in front of the radiator first. And through a small filter designed for PS systems. Then back to the hydroboost.

    I am hoping the yokohama's are high enough quality that they won't death wobble. I do plan on a complete tear down of the Dana 60 just before painting it.
    Thanks for the replies guys..

  2. #222
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Dracut, Massachusetts
    Posts
    232

    Default

    Yeah sorry Al, reservoir meant the power steering pump. So two separate return hoses, 1 from the HB and 1 from the steering gear to a T. Then back to power steering pump unless you have two return hose barbs on the back of you pump (some do). The return from the HB should not have to make a 90° turn, but pass straight through the T and let the steering gear return have to make the 90° bend through the T. Filter and cooler can go after the T before it returns to the pump.

  3. #223

    Default

    Well you end up with a lot of questions when you are a detail guy. It burns a lot of time. Yes a straight path for the return up the fender skirt. A Tee to the PS pump return will be right on the way. It looks meant to be. I am going to look for a high flow large diameter ID Tee connector. Thank you for the reply.

  4. #224

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    I need a glove box door button latch. Mine is MIA and I have looked for way to many times now. I am wondering if I even had one to begin with. I have a wanted ad going also. If anyone has a parts truck. I sure could use one. I also checked ebay and nothing there...

  5. #225
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Dracut, Massachusetts
    Posts
    232

    Default

    I got one you can have Al. Give me a few days and I’ll send it out to you.

  6. #226

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    The seal I got for the steering column bell is a Durus 212284 A. Got it at McGuire Bearing in Spokane WA. The hardest part was getting it started in the bell squarely. A little lube on the rubber for when it slides on the coulmn is necessary, probably slighty soapy water would work but I just gave it a little shot of brakeclean and slid it on quickly.

  7. #227

    Default

    Well both you guys are my hero today. Two more problems solved. Thank you both very much.



    And for a quick update on the truck work. I finished all the radiator mounting using tailgate bumpers to keep it in place, and filled all the cut out sheet metal in the front grill support with new 18GA body metal, and also welded all the tiny little stress cracks. One more tiny section to replace on the back sheet metal radiator support and all the metal work for the very front is done. Some good progress so far.

  8. #228
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Attleboro, MA
    Posts
    26

    Default

    I must have missed the hydroboost question as I just had to deal with the return lines. I went with an expensive aftermarket solution that has 2 return ports but it can be done on the cheap. Like others have said a T in the return to combine both lines is pretty common and another solution from the factory is a pump with 2 returns built into the reservoir.

    Like this saginaw pump from Summit:
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/b...oaAl1kEALw_wcB

    It may be possible to upgrade your reservoir if there was a factory option available for that pump.

  9. #229

    Default

    I have a dodge pump with two returns used that is on the shelf. But realized it has the vacuum pump drive instead of a pulley. I should save it for the money pit er....I mean dodge though. I bought a brass tee today. But thought I would get online and look for a brass wye that has better angles on it for return flow.

    I ordered a steering column bell seal today. Durus 212284 A is the number. It was 14.23 plus a little shipping. Many thanks Glenn.

    My M715 hood is really trashed. The passenger side hinge stamped metal is pried down a mile. The only way to tuck it back to touching the hood skin is to cut all the spot welds and bend it back then weld it back in. Well I obtained a dark red hood from Member Glenn and I am very surprised to see it does not fit. It appears to be from a slightly different stamping dies. The raised center is wider where it meets a rhino grill and m715 grill support. By a long ways. The entire front edge is straighter while the M truck hood has a bit of a crown conforming to the grille support perfectly. The red hood has huge gaps out by the rubber bumpers and fender corners. It also almost hits the radiator cap when it should have 3/4 inch clearance. The M715 hood has 3/4 clearance. The original hood had so many bad dents I started eyeballing a very straight hood from a 70 wagoneer in the corner of my property. I had a neighbor help me get it into my shop over a sea of total ice, and it absolutely fits like a glove. Only one dent in the top. So Glenn if you want me to bring the red hood back. I can do so. Or not...

    More later. Thanks for the replies! And seal number.

  10. #230

    Default

    More progress. I work on it as much as I am able. Then plow snow. I want it to melt. I have been working on the front sheet metal. There is a lot wrong with it. The grill support has a large piece cut out right in front of the radiator. I found some 18 GA and made a patch and TIG welded it in. I did not duplicate the factory part. I put a fold in the edge by the radiator since there was plenty of room, and a fold will strengthen it. The factory panel has a cut back all the way across. Didn't see a need for it.

    Getting my patch panel marked up.



    I had to go to town for a square nut. I had to replace part of the bottom of the radiator support down there on the passenger side. It looks good now.
    I welded up all small cracks in the entire panel also.



    So the radiator support was cut wider for the 502 that used to be in it. But the side channel was in need of a total rebuild. The bottom foot was to long, and the top was cut off. It was also not attached very well. I fixed all of it and filled holes and restored edges.

    Removing it.



    Got the bottom foot shortened and filled in missing metal. It now is a exact match to the drivers side.



    I had to order some square metal tubing to repair the top of this part. I had no .109 thick metal and needed to wait for ever for it to show up. I cut it up and grafted it on matching the exact angle.



    It looks good now.



    I got it attached with several plug welds. That is done.

    Next was the drivers side fender. It had the spot welds broken between the flare and fender metal from hard wheeling and it got welded back up out of position. The metal was thin and had holes everywhere. The fender flared out at an angle. Way misaligned... I cut all the welds, restored the edges, straightened the metal and filled very porous holes.

    It was difficult to reach some of it. There is a lot of heat warping and bad edges. I will shrink the warping later when it is all repaired and on the rig. It is all to floppy now.



    Rewelding after repositioning it where it should be.



    continued....

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