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Thread: The longest build thread ever, at least it seems like it!

  1. #211

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    I finished most all the heater work. I started pulling the front sheet metal. I am removing dents and aligning cracks to weld up. This is on the front radiator support.
    I have a couple questions.

    One of my radiator side mounts has been reattached. And doctored some. I am going to remove it and repair it to look untouched. Then reweld it back on.
    Could anyone with a truck handy measure the gap between the radiator side channels?
    This measurement right here. Exact please...



    The top was cut off. I will put it back. Plus the bottom was welded. I think it broke or something. I will make all the repairs go away.

    Question,
    Are the two body mounts the core support sits on the same size as the cab body mounts? The thickness or height of the biscuit?



    Got most all the dents out. A couple small cracks to weld and back on it goes for a fit check.



    Question number two,
    Does anyone have the seal number for the steering column bell under the steering wheel. I have ordered a couple seals and they are the wrong size. I was told there is a NAPA number. I am not finding it.

    My flat GM leaf springs showed up. The UPS driver tossed them through my gate right on the ground when there is a big drop box 8 feet away. Numnutz..

    I feel like I am making some fair progress. There is a lot to do still.
    Thanks ahead of time for anyone who can answer my questions.

  2. #212

    Default

    I found my body biscuit answer by looking in the online manuals. I still was hoping to get a measurement between radiator mounts. And the seal number for the steering column bell.

    The new flat 3 leaf GM K30 springs leveled my truck perfectly. I lost one degree of caster. I am now at 3.5-3.75 caster. Is that not enough? I am wondering if I will get death wobble. Anyone have experience with this number? Barrman?

  3. #213
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    I think you will be ok Al. It is one of those things that we really won’t know until you are driving down the road.

    I am thinking of my stock M715. NDT tires and I had bad death wobble at various speeds above 45 mph. Pretty much going to happen if a bump was hit in a turn at any speed above 30 mph. I put the Michelin XZL tires on and no more death wobble at any speed. Then I have a flat at the Colorado FE. I put a XL tire owned by Binford on the passenger front and death wobble is back at all speeds. Obviously, Castor had nothing to do with it.

    I also learned building the truck for Sermis that setting Castor now is a waste of time. I set his with a bare frame. Once we got the drive train mounted the front springs kind of stopped compressing as more weight was added to the build. The rear keeps going down a 1/16 of an inch at a time as we build seats, battery mounts, etc…

    My suggestion is to leave it alone but keep the setting in the back of your head to check when it is all dressed up to drive. Then drive and see what you get.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  4. #214

    Default

    Very interesting on your findings. The Yokohamas are a pretty good tire. So I hope to be OK. I can always change the shims later. I am pleased with the front height now. I really appreciate your quick reply. And the PM too.
    So Thank you Tim.

    Turns out I need a high beam indicator assembly for the dash panel. I don't have one. And my glove box door push button latch also. Maybe it was a lever.

    I have been looking at posts from 2007 and up. At roll cage details. All of Luckypabst's cage work. A lot of pictures are gone on other threads. It was interesting to see what I posted and it gave me a timeline for stuff I did back then. Lots of members that are gone now. Wow...

    Onward with more front sheet metal repairs.

  5. #215

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaiserjeeps View Post
    I finished most all the heater work. I started pulling the front sheet metal. I am removing dents and aligning cracks to weld up. This is on the front radiator support.
    I have a couple questions.

    One of my radiator side mounts has been reattached. And doctored some. I am going to remove it and repair it to look untouched. Then reweld it back on.
    Could anyone with a truck handy measure the gap between the radiator side channels?
    This measurement right here. Exact please...



    The top was cut off. I will put it back. Plus the bottom was welded. I think it broke or something. I will make all the repairs go away.

    Question,
    Are the two body mounts the core support sits on the same size as the cab body mounts? The thickness or height of the biscuit?



    Got most all the dents out. A couple small cracks to weld and back on it goes for a fit check.



    Question number two,
    Does anyone have the seal number for the steering column bell under the steering wheel. I have ordered a couple seals and they are the wrong size. I was told there is a NAPA number. I am not finding it.

    My flat GM leaf springs showed up. The UPS driver tossed them through my gate right on the ground when there is a big drop box 8 feet away. Numnutz..

    I feel like I am making some fair progress. There is a lot to do still.
    Thanks ahead of time for anyone who can answer my questions.
    Just pulled my radiator and was able to get in to measure.
    I measured 25 3/16"

  6. #216

    Default

    That is a huge help. Thank you. They are indeed different than the wag's and J truck panels. So my comments earlier on in the thread about a GTO radiator fitting should be discarded. I appreciate you doing that.

  7. #217

    Default

    I am waiting on some metal for the passenger side radiator channel. It was .109 thick and I did not have any metal that thickness. I can't make the damage vanish with a different thickness metal. It should be here today or tomorrow. Then I can finish the channel and weld it back on the radiator support. The delays in shipping now are taking the progress out of building a rig. It is frustrating to wait weeks sometimes for something to show up.
    So I made upper and lower mounts for the Summit radiator. Then found hoses to make it fit. They will get painted then have medium density rubber glued in to cushion the aluminum. That radiator is fragile as heck. It takes damage just by looking at it. I have had to be extremely careful with it. I am wondering if gravel will ruin it later. I will cross that bridge or jump then.

    The bottom mount. I bridged it across the front body mounts. It just touches the 45 degree frame supports. I need those to stay for heavy winching later.



    The top mounts..




    Then pulling out the Chevy K30 hydroboost from Eightyduece I made a spacer and shortened the pushrod. It took all day with a couple re-do's. Thank you eightyduece for suggesting it and then putting one in my hands. It is a smart thing to add to this build. I have a question that I was going to google after this... Does the return line from the steering box get a Tee to put fluid back to the pump AND the hydroboost? I need to still plumb that.

    I used the original bolt holes to mount it. I can still drill more but I don't think I will need to.



    I upgraded the master cylinder to a chevy K30 as needed. I will plumb the brake lines after the truck is disassembled and painted. Most of them are done already. The hydroboost fits great next to the clutch master cylinder.



    I still need a seal number for the steering column bell. If anyone has it.

  8. #218

    Default

    I need to get you that seal number. I've been cleaning my garage and have it and my bell sitting on my toolbox.

  9. #219
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Dracut, Massachusetts
    Posts
    232

    Default

    Yeah the returns are T'ed together before the reservoir . I've read that its best to give the HB unit a straight line back to the reservoir and have the steering gear make the 90° turn back. Something about the turbulence of the fluid affecting the braking. Well I inadvertently plumbed mine with both the returns having to make a 90° turn back to the reservoir and ran it like that for a long time without issue. I plan to swap those connections around when I install my power steering cooler this spring.

  10. #220
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Dracut, Massachusetts
    Posts
    232

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaiserjeeps View Post
    I found my body biscuit answer by looking in the online manuals. I still was hoping to get a measurement between radiator mounts. And the seal number for the steering column bell.

    The new flat 3 leaf GM K30 springs leveled my truck perfectly. I lost one degree of caster. I am now at 3.5-3.75 caster. Is that not enough? I am wondering if I will get death wobble. Anyone have experience with this number? Barrman?
    I had about 3° of caster and was fine diving with my 34" rollers on there, but as soon as I got the HMMWV 37"s on there at 35mph the death wobble was not so much fun. I added a shim and it may have gotten a little better, but was still definitely present. Adding a steering stabilizer resolved it mostly, but at certain speeds you could feel it wanting to get into a wobble. Rebuilding both worn kingpins made a huge difference and completely removed all wobble.

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