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Thread: The longest build thread ever, at least it seems like it!

  1. #171


    I ordered a 3 lever light switch and the cannon plug for the terminals. Googling the 3 lever switch brought up one of my 2007 posts where Fisherman and I rewired his whole truck integrating a 12 volt harness along side the OEM harness. I spent a week at his house figuring all of it out. It worked beautifully. Now I can't remember a thing. Here we go again. I see also that NOS light switches are hard to find. And the replacements seem to possibly be cheap imported units. I found one with all the NSN numbers on the back. I hope it is of some level of quality. Grateful for the manuals page. I have a stack of printed helpful material.

    I built a clutch slave cylinder mount yesterday. Tack welded till I get the fork installed. I wish I had found it first and then put that together. I need a turn signal switch.

    Are power steering boxes hard to rebuild? Never done it.

  2. #172


    I have a few electrical things on the way. Some brake parts, a new fuel filler etc. I was able to remove the huge fuel tank. There is nothing like the smell of old gas. I am trying to decide if a 12 circuit fuse panel is enough. I want a few vacant spots for future stuff. I cut off the remains of the front bed lifting eyes. They got cut off by a previous owner. Made a couple new ones and welded them on. Now I can lift the bed off. I found some cracks in the corners. I welded them also. I have a few dents in the bed and tailgate to beat on. I am getting there.

    What is left of the lifting eye. I traced out the back ones for a replacement.


    The clutch slave mount. I need the fork in to see what to do here. The picture makes it look close to the header tube. There is at least two inches there. I will still make a simple heat shield later.

    I should get the new fuel tank tomorrow. I need to weld in mounts as the tank spans the whole width between the frame rails. The OEM tank mounts are only on the drivers side. I can't find the heavy gauge hat channel that is under there. Can't have it everything I guess.
    Last edited by Kaiserjeeps; March 2nd, 2021 at 01:08 AM.

  3. #173
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Katy, TX


    Nice! Keep those pics coming man and good work!

  4. #174


    Well it is getting there. I just brought the front clip into the shop this evening. Boy do I have a lot of work in front of me. Lots of issues after a good look over. One thing at a time I guess. Ice and snow is thawing like mad. This is the time of year where the ground is like jello from thawing.
    I did drill my frame out today and sleeved in a heavy wall sleeve to make the steering box a 4 bolt mount. Funny how they have 4 threaded mounting ears, and most Jeeps of all types only use three of them. With big tires and power steering, I want all 4 bolts working. I did it to my CJ years ago too.
    I spent some time messing with a new fuel tank today. I am not really satisfied with that is going on there yet. I am planning on a metal reducer to the new aftermarket tank from the OEM gas filler. More later..

  5. #175


    I received my turn signal lever unit and new solid state flasher today. I was not thinking when I ordered the flasher unit. It is 24 volt and I am going 12 volt. Will the flasher unit work on 12 volts? Shoot...

  6. #176


    I'm pretty sure it does. My signal set up looks original and the system was swapped to 12 volt/6.2 diesel. The fuel tank sender definitely does not work going to 12 volt. I think the only thing may be is the signal length may be a little different as the volts may heat the thermal flasher a little differently
    Come and take it
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  7. #177


    Thanks Gonz. I will install it and see how it goes. I may have a used only for ten minutes sale later. I saw a regular flasher unit on the harness that came out of the cab I got from Glenn. I was tired when I ordered everything. I will sure give it a try though.

    Lots of work on the front sheet metal. My hood and passenger side fender are probably not repairable. The mudding days my truck went through were hard on it. The fender flare broke all the spot welds and it got welded out of place, with both the fender metal and the flare being bent, and to add that there is a sizable gap between the two. The heavy weld behind all of it looks to much to try and remove. My hood was forced open with a sticky hinge. Well that pulls the formed metal where the hinge bolts to downward and away from the metal skin and there is roughly an inch of bend downward there. Not sure how to fix that without cutting the entire corner apart. I called Glenn this morning to see if he had spares he could part with. He is checking later today. I am crossing my fingers as it would save the day yet again. I feel like the hood and fender are not worth the time to even try. My spare 70 J truck hood is in the same condition but on both sides. Lube those hinges guys.

    Happy Friday.

  8. #178


    A quick update. Using a transfer punch to locate the center of the steering box 4th ear, I drilled with a 1 inch hole saw through three layers to insert a metal sleeve. First though I drilled with an extended length 3/16 pilot drill to try and keep it on center. I was off a tad and had to clearance it with a carbide bit inside the frame. The sleeve should bolt up square and not hit the frame metal. Then you won't fight getting the bolt in later. Then weld it all up. I have done this on most of my 4 wheel drives.

    I should have welded the hole shut. Next time... That big booger weld right below the hole looks just like what the factory would do. But minus 10 points for not having any air bubbles in the weld.

    Grade 8 bolt. That is where the bolt hole points to. Right at the end of the add on frame extension.

    The full size jeep fender skirt has a different tail end than the M715. The factory cuts off the end and spot welds on a tail piece to bolt up and match the different fender. My m715 fender skirt was all cut up and there was no metal where the battery would be on a FSJ. That is where I am putting my battery and I had a very nice fender skirt on hand. Time for some cutting.

    What gets removed.

    The tail piece that goes in it's place. Half the spot welds were not connected. The joint was terrible. I fixed that on the new part. I straightened the bent metal and sanded for ever. M truck paint is some tough stuff.

    I bolted it all up not welded. Marked it and pulled a contour with a contour gauge. There is no way to tell other than that what curvature to weld in. It fit very well. A ton of time saved here verses repairing what I had. My front sheet metal is pretty rough from 5 feet. 20 feet it all looks great. Well maybe 25 feet. I am pretty sure I am a PITA perfectionist.

    Last edited by Kaiserjeeps; March 5th, 2021 at 02:27 PM.

  9. #179
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Eastern Maine


    Nice work.

  10. #180
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    North Central Wisconsin


    Your workmanship...WOW!!!!

    Yes, the solid state unit will work on 12 and 24 volts...if you go with LED lights, you may need to put a resistor in the turn signal line to create enough resistance to activate the flasher unit...I know there are posts on that from a few people running into that...otherwise, great swap.
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

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