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Thread: The longest build thread ever, at least it seems like it!

  1. #161

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    Quote Originally Posted by teking View Post
    I love the fresh air vents. Want to do that to mine. Where did you get them???

    EDIT: NVRMND there are a bunch of them on EBAY
    Well you beat me to it. I had to look a little but found a pair with covers. I don't have the knobs as I only have one set. But you could probably find them or use a throttle push pull knob set. The hard part would be finding one 73 inches long. The drivers side is 30 knob to bent rod tip. This is the bend you need. RC model stores have the Z bend pliers cheap that will make the correct rod end. Don't let the dirt fool you. They clean up well.




    Now I found these. If you want them they are yours. Because of the generosity of M38inmaine, I now have a chance to pay it forward. If you would like these Tom, PM me your address. I will send them. If you find a set on ebay with the push pull knobs for a good deal, maybe that would be a good path. But these are yours if you like. I will include the cardboard pattern and correct location too.



    I am wanting to work on the truck today. To much to do... It will be there later I am sure. Back to work I go.
    Last edited by Kaiserjeeps; February 13th, 2021 at 05:53 PM.

  2. #162

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    Teking,
    I cleaned up my full inbox. Sorry bout that. Send (PM) me your address and I will get them on the way. Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is to pay it forward someday with another zone member.

  3. #163

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    Looking awesome, Kaiser! What did you topcoat the SEM product with?

    Also, what are you planning to do for paint on the body? I saw you used a rattle can primer to stop surface rust on the upper cab repair but is that just temporary? What primera do you like for the sheet metal?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  4. #164

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    Yes, the cab is really looking great! I am so close to moving to the front sheet metal and the bed. I top coated the SEM with Eastwoods black internal frame paint. It has a lot of zinc and some type of phenolic resins that looks good on the label. I have used it extensively on the last wagoneer I restored. One thing I did after paint on the wag was heavily spray 3M cavity wax on every interior panel after the Eastwood paint. I will do that on the M715 here but only after it is completely painted. I have the 1 inch access holes 2 each on the back wall of the rocker panel. I keep forgetting to show the nice rubber plugs I got from summit. I will post them and the part number later.

    This is the color I am leaning towards. I thought about the olive brown and even the Dakota brown. Honestly with all black trim parts, I think the buckskin tan would really look sharp. Second choice is the olive brown.

    https://tcpglobal.com/collections/ho...t-Buckskin-Tan

    I would use the primer that goes with the Hotrod flatz. It is urethane. I don't like spraying urethanes. No filter cartridge made will filter out isocyanates. Not one. People don't realize this. You have to use a fresh air respirator. I had to get one for the wagoneer work. It was stupid expensive. They are awkward as heck to spray with. But I don't want to poison myself. Of course I found all this out AFTER buying all the wagoneer paint. Oops...
    I asked the paint company if they would flatten an acrylic enamel. Nope what you see is what you get.
    I will probably spray it outside. LOL.

    Quote Originally Posted by benjamintx@gmail.com View Post
    Looking awesome, Kaiser! What did you topcoat the SEM product with?

    Also, what are you planning to do for paint on the body? I saw you used a rattle can primer to stop surface rust on the upper cab repair but is that just temporary? What primera do you like for the sheet metal?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  5. #165

    Default The longest build thread ever, at least it seems like it!

    Man I hear you on the urethanes. Architects often want matte finish on steel in our builds and Iíve had great success with the pro industrial acrylics from Sherwin Williams.

    https://www.sherwin-williams.com/pai...urface-acrylic

    I wonder if that would work on our sheet metal?

    PPG also has a line called Pitt Tech that I havenít used. I think the lowest sheen they come in is egg-shell but it seems like you could top it with a flat clear coat to knock it down?

    I did think that the magenta/olive 3m cartridges would catch isocyanates? I donít risk it with my guys anyways but it would be good to know if those cartridges donít work!

    I like the tan with black accents, would look awesome!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Last edited by benjamintx@gmail.com; February 16th, 2021 at 01:26 PM.

  6. #166

    Default

    Yes double check on any cartridge for is ability to remove the isocyanates. Last I read several years ago nothing worked well. I had bought all the paint for the wagoneer and THEN found out the issue. TCP global would not take 1500 in paint back so I had to buy a fresh air system. It is very difficult to paint with them. Managing two air lines. Getting the fresh air hose stuck while you are walking and have your head yanked back. A regular hoot...

    I will have a look at the Sherwin Williams and PPG. I have not settled on a black statin for the frame and all the nit noids yet. I was gong to use cerakote glacier black. But it is super expensive and does not sand well later. That cerakote is good for 1800 degrees. For manifolds it is just incredible.

    I hope to be back on the truck later today. Gotta go mail a bunch of stuff and get a new bottle of welding gas. Mine decided to empty itself.
    Thanks for the great feedback. I want to be ready for painting weather. My 30 minute window this summer.

  7. #167
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Geneva, FL
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaiserjeeps View Post
    Well you beat me to it. I had to look a little but found a pair with covers. I don't have the knobs as I only have one set. But you could probably find them or use a throttle push pull knob set. The hard part would be finding one 73 inches long. The drivers side is 30 knob to bent rod tip. This is the bend you need. RC model stores have the Z bend pliers cheap that will make the correct rod end. Don't let the dirt fool you. They clean up well.




    Now I found these. If you want them they are yours. Because of the generosity of M38inmaine, I now have a chance to pay it forward. If you would like these Tom, PM me your address. I will send them. If you find a set on ebay with the push pull knobs for a good deal, maybe that would be a good path. But these are yours if you like. I will include the cardboard pattern and correct location too.



    I am wanting to work on the truck today. To much to do... It will be there later I am sure. Back to work I go.

    Well I dug through my books and finally found it. But THANK YOU for your help in the PM!!!!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by teking; February 25th, 2021 at 03:18 PM.

  8. #168

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    Good to hear... I wish I could see pictures posted in that format. Same with other build threads. I get the spinning asterisk for days. The easiest and simple thing to do wold be to find the FSJ knobs. They will go right in and no fussing with making something work. I will keep an eye out for a parts rig that has them.

  9. #169

    Default

    Moving onward there is a lot to post. I have been busy. I also have been trying to convince the wife on how cool a roof top tent would be for our M101 trailer. I used to ground tent camp year round with friends in OR. There is no way in heck I will do that here with all the bears. Sleeping up high would allow a night of rest. I will keep the tent thing in mind.

    So I have been welding up all previous owner non OEM holes in the cab. Antenna holes, holes in the floor, back wall ect. This cab is looking so great.
    I have removed all broken studs and chased every threaded hole. I have removed the chevy V-8 conversion clearance dent on the firewall. I have fitted a FSJ heater and was bummed to find the defroster ducts will not work because of being in the way of the glove box and the 3 lever light switch. I am not sure I am using the stock light switch yet. I have fitted an updated master cylinder and a hydraulic clutch master cylinder. I have welded up a rear mount on the 205 transfer case. This stabilized the gear box and it does not rock now. I have welded up hard top holes in the windshield frame.
    I have 2.5 inch mandrel bent exhaust run back to the rear of the cross member for the 205. I had to stop because I need a different fuel tank. I have a 1410 U-joint driveline that was able to be installed but needs to be shortened by 2 plus inches. It was way to close to the fuel tank and any articulation would hit the tank. I have searched high and low and almost got a poly tank. But it brought problems with fitting a correct sending unit and a very small diameter ID on the fill spout. I found a 18 gallon tank that is a near perfect fit and will work till I can either add a second tank or build my own. I lost 10 gallons over the oEM tank. I will fix that later.

    First off a complex repair made easy. Every single full size jeep has issues here. Under the cowl above the kick panel. This one is in very good condition with minimal missing metal, but rain would still come in the cab. On the last wagoneer I restored to perfect, I cut away the top body skin and replaced 3 different sections of metal before putting the skin back on. It was intense and not happening here. I made a patch and using structural 3M body panel adhesive and now it is sealed and stronger than anything around it. Panel adhesive has corrosion inhibitors and it is a great solution. The pop rivet was to hold the part while a 24 hour cure took place. I will still coat the seams with sealant also made with corrosion inhibitors. Before paint...

    Marked to sand to fresh shiney metal. Adhesive area needs to be very clean and rough as possible.



    All done and cured purple. A perfect solution to not being able to weld easily.



    Putting metal back after a chevy conversion. The buick 350 fits fine. This was brutal and loud.



    Reshaped enough for a skim coat of spot putty. I would spend two days doing metal finishing. I am also not that good at it. It takes miles of patience.



    And repairing the heat shield on the other side of the firewall mod. It was easier to do 4 short welds, than try to blend a corner back in.



    1/4 of the time and all done.



    Weld, weld, grind, grind, sand some more...





    I have a off center defroster duct coming from Summit to see if I can make it work. If not I will have to make them. The FSJ heater.




    Continued for the picture limit.
    Last edited by Kaiserjeeps; February 26th, 2021 at 02:55 PM.

  10. #170

    Default

    The 205 shifter boot is from a Nova. The later model FSJ rigs have a bigger squirrel cage fan. 79ish verses a kaiser product. These move more air.



    The new master cylinders. I cut a rivet on the clutch pedal and made my own stud for the push rod. It had good alignment so I went with it.



    The floor pan got a corner put back. Taken from a 70 J truck. It minimized the fabrication time. I must be getting lazy.



    Like it never happened. I wish I could achieve more of this end result. I still need to cut the transmission hole.



    New exhaust. I am glad to be able to use the headers.



    I put a quick release joint behind the cross member to help with removing gear boxes later. The muffler location is not secured yet. I am waiting on the new fuel tank to proceed. So I stopped there.



    The transfer case 3rd mount. I have metal spacers for bushings so I can weld it up and not melt poly. I did this same thing to my old CUCV after breaking a TH400 case.




    Getting ready to fill some holes in the dash. I am also planning on what goes where.



    I am burning daylight.. More soon.
    Last edited by Kaiserjeeps; February 26th, 2021 at 02:49 PM.

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