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Thread: The longest build thread ever, at least it seems like it!

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  1. #1

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    Quote Originally Posted by teking View Post
    I love the fresh air vents. Want to do that to mine. Where did you get them???

    EDIT: NVRMND there are a bunch of them on EBAY
    Well you beat me to it. I had to look a little but found a pair with covers. I don't have the knobs as I only have one set. But you could probably find them or use a throttle push pull knob set. The hard part would be finding one 73 inches long. The drivers side is 30 knob to bent rod tip. This is the bend you need. RC model stores have the Z bend pliers cheap that will make the correct rod end. Don't let the dirt fool you. They clean up well.




    Now I found these. If you want them they are yours. Because of the generosity of M38inmaine, I now have a chance to pay it forward. If you would like these Tom, PM me your address. I will send them. If you find a set on ebay with the push pull knobs for a good deal, maybe that would be a good path. But these are yours if you like. I will include the cardboard pattern and correct location too.



    I am wanting to work on the truck today. To much to do... It will be there later I am sure. Back to work I go.
    Last edited by Kaiserjeeps; February 13th, 2021 at 05:53 PM.

  2. #2

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    Teking,
    I cleaned up my full inbox. Sorry bout that. Send (PM) me your address and I will get them on the way. Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is to pay it forward someday with another zone member.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaiserjeeps View Post
    Well you beat me to it. I had to look a little but found a pair with covers. I don't have the knobs as I only have one set. But you could probably find them or use a throttle push pull knob set. The hard part would be finding one 73 inches long. The drivers side is 30 knob to bent rod tip. This is the bend you need. RC model stores have the Z bend pliers cheap that will make the correct rod end. Don't let the dirt fool you. They clean up well.




    Now I found these. If you want them they are yours. Because of the generosity of M38inmaine, I now have a chance to pay it forward. If you would like these Tom, PM me your address. I will send them. If you find a set on ebay with the push pull knobs for a good deal, maybe that would be a good path. But these are yours if you like. I will include the cardboard pattern and correct location too.



    I am wanting to work on the truck today. To much to do... It will be there later I am sure. Back to work I go.

    Well I dug through my books and finally found it. But THANK YOU for your help in the PM!!!!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by teking; February 25th, 2021 at 03:18 PM.

  4. #4

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    Good to hear... I wish I could see pictures posted in that format. Same with other build threads. I get the spinning asterisk for days. The easiest and simple thing to do wold be to find the FSJ knobs. They will go right in and no fussing with making something work. I will keep an eye out for a parts rig that has them.

  5. #5

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    Moving onward there is a lot to post. I have been busy. I also have been trying to convince the wife on how cool a roof top tent would be for our M101 trailer. I used to ground tent camp year round with friends in OR. There is no way in heck I will do that here with all the bears. Sleeping up high would allow a night of rest. I will keep the tent thing in mind.

    So I have been welding up all previous owner non OEM holes in the cab. Antenna holes, holes in the floor, back wall ect. This cab is looking so great.
    I have removed all broken studs and chased every threaded hole. I have removed the chevy V-8 conversion clearance dent on the firewall. I have fitted a FSJ heater and was bummed to find the defroster ducts will not work because of being in the way of the glove box and the 3 lever light switch. I am not sure I am using the stock light switch yet. I have fitted an updated master cylinder and a hydraulic clutch master cylinder. I have welded up a rear mount on the 205 transfer case. This stabilized the gear box and it does not rock now. I have welded up hard top holes in the windshield frame.
    I have 2.5 inch mandrel bent exhaust run back to the rear of the cross member for the 205. I had to stop because I need a different fuel tank. I have a 1410 U-joint driveline that was able to be installed but needs to be shortened by 2 plus inches. It was way to close to the fuel tank and any articulation would hit the tank. I have searched high and low and almost got a poly tank. But it brought problems with fitting a correct sending unit and a very small diameter ID on the fill spout. I found a 18 gallon tank that is a near perfect fit and will work till I can either add a second tank or build my own. I lost 10 gallons over the oEM tank. I will fix that later.

    First off a complex repair made easy. Every single full size jeep has issues here. Under the cowl above the kick panel. This one is in very good condition with minimal missing metal, but rain would still come in the cab. On the last wagoneer I restored to perfect, I cut away the top body skin and replaced 3 different sections of metal before putting the skin back on. It was intense and not happening here. I made a patch and using structural 3M body panel adhesive and now it is sealed and stronger than anything around it. Panel adhesive has corrosion inhibitors and it is a great solution. The pop rivet was to hold the part while a 24 hour cure took place. I will still coat the seams with sealant also made with corrosion inhibitors. Before paint...

    Marked to sand to fresh shiney metal. Adhesive area needs to be very clean and rough as possible.



    All done and cured purple. A perfect solution to not being able to weld easily.



    Putting metal back after a chevy conversion. The buick 350 fits fine. This was brutal and loud.



    Reshaped enough for a skim coat of spot putty. I would spend two days doing metal finishing. I am also not that good at it. It takes miles of patience.



    And repairing the heat shield on the other side of the firewall mod. It was easier to do 4 short welds, than try to blend a corner back in.



    1/4 of the time and all done.



    Weld, weld, grind, grind, sand some more...





    I have a off center defroster duct coming from Summit to see if I can make it work. If not I will have to make them. The FSJ heater.




    Continued for the picture limit.
    Last edited by Kaiserjeeps; February 26th, 2021 at 02:55 PM.

  6. #6

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    The 205 shifter boot is from a Nova. The later model FSJ rigs have a bigger squirrel cage fan. 79ish verses a kaiser product. These move more air.



    The new master cylinders. I cut a rivet on the clutch pedal and made my own stud for the push rod. It had good alignment so I went with it.



    The floor pan got a corner put back. Taken from a 70 J truck. It minimized the fabrication time. I must be getting lazy.



    Like it never happened. I wish I could achieve more of this end result. I still need to cut the transmission hole.



    New exhaust. I am glad to be able to use the headers.



    I put a quick release joint behind the cross member to help with removing gear boxes later. The muffler location is not secured yet. I am waiting on the new fuel tank to proceed. So I stopped there.



    The transfer case 3rd mount. I have metal spacers for bushings so I can weld it up and not melt poly. I did this same thing to my old CUCV after breaking a TH400 case.




    Getting ready to fill some holes in the dash. I am also planning on what goes where.



    I am burning daylight.. More soon.
    Last edited by Kaiserjeeps; February 26th, 2021 at 02:49 PM.

  7. #7

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    I ordered a 3 lever light switch and the cannon plug for the terminals. Googling the 3 lever switch brought up one of my 2007 posts where Fisherman and I rewired his whole truck integrating a 12 volt harness along side the OEM harness. I spent a week at his house figuring all of it out. It worked beautifully. Now I can't remember a thing. Here we go again. I see also that NOS light switches are hard to find. And the replacements seem to possibly be cheap imported units. I found one with all the NSN numbers on the back. I hope it is of some level of quality. Grateful for the manuals page. I have a stack of printed helpful material.

    I built a clutch slave cylinder mount yesterday. Tack welded till I get the fork installed. I wish I had found it first and then put that together. I need a turn signal switch.

    Are power steering boxes hard to rebuild? Never done it.

  8. #8

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    I have a few electrical things on the way. Some brake parts, a new fuel filler etc. I was able to remove the huge fuel tank. There is nothing like the smell of old gas. I am trying to decide if a 12 circuit fuse panel is enough. I want a few vacant spots for future stuff. I cut off the remains of the front bed lifting eyes. They got cut off by a previous owner. Made a couple new ones and welded them on. Now I can lift the bed off. I found some cracks in the corners. I welded them also. I have a few dents in the bed and tailgate to beat on. I am getting there.

    What is left of the lifting eye. I traced out the back ones for a replacement.



    Done.



    The clutch slave mount. I need the fork in to see what to do here. The picture makes it look close to the header tube. There is at least two inches there. I will still make a simple heat shield later.



    I should get the new fuel tank tomorrow. I need to weld in mounts as the tank spans the whole width between the frame rails. The OEM tank mounts are only on the drivers side. I can't find the heavy gauge hat channel that is under there. Can't have it everything I guess.
    Last edited by Kaiserjeeps; March 2nd, 2021 at 01:08 AM.

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