3 lever light switch and 12 volt conversion.

[fisherman]

Thanks Tim, no hurry as I won't be doing wiring for a few weeks yet. I will definately need your and Brute's expertise when it comes to completing my wiring. Just wanted to know if it was possible and how difficult it maybe. Sounds pretty straight forward. I don't want to waste any of your time until I acctually get at it. I'm glad you know and can help, I will need that pretty soon. Thank You both

[fisherman]

Almost forgot yes the composite led lights with blackout. Can't wait to seem em mounted. I put voltage to them boy are they bright. Thanks Again. I think I'll be using a Painless wiring kit for the 12v conversion. Or any recommendations?

[Barrman]

Todd,
These trucks are wired very simple. If you have nothing left of your original harness or don't want to use it, cut off selected wires from the 3 lever pigtaill so you can get to the wire ends under the dash and be able to work with them. All except the big F power input wire, dash lights, head lights, b/o brake wires, tail lights, front parking lights, b/o spot light, b/o running lights and the stop switch power supply.

Better yet, you will need to mess with the C J and I can't remember if it is A or K pins. These need to be cut so you can run your column blinkers. The rest can stay. Which means that you can cut them off where you want, solder a new wire onto the pig tail, cover it in shrink wrap, then run the wire to where it goes and attach the proper Packard fitting to the other end and you now have one less wire to run.

I would suggest you get ahold of Keven at Star Ordanance. He sells the proper wire for $1.00/foot new connectors for $1.00 each along with the metal tags for $.25 each. He also sells the crimping tool for $2? something. You can wire your truck for $200-$250 and have a trucks life of connectors left over. Just go heavy on the wire footage. I bought 20 feet thinking I could connect my 3 lever to the blinker system with it. I got about 1/2 way done. 8 wire from the steering column through the firewall uses a lot of wire.

[brute4c]

Here are the pins on the back of the 3 lever switch and their functions...the pins are marked on the plug of you look close:

[fisherman]

Thanks you guys, any idea how many feet of wire to build my own harness?

[Barrman]

Figure about 100 feet to do the rear lights and another 100 for the rest. 34 halves (Male/female) connectors will do all your exterior lights. Another 20 of each should get you by.

[fisherman]

Thanks, I figured I would need to use pieces and ends from the original harness to build a new one, especially the ends. No problem splicing and such. One of my employees recently went back to work for Boeing, he is an electrician and wires airplane cockpits. I think he will be giving me a hand. He has taught me a lot about wiring basics, still much for me to learn though.

[WetCJ]

Don't know if this will be any help or not. Just something I made up when someone was asking about hooking a GM column into the original harness some years back.

[Barrman]

I think that is it Joe. L is your signal lead from the brake switch and K could be tied to the same wire or just hot all the time if I am remembering and thinking right.

John, I can understand the "Lighting Diagram" page because is easier for me to read. I have it saved to my work computer, but not this home one. Either way, they both let the reader know what pin feeds what wire which is the entire point.

Todd, if you are going to reuse your old connectors, then you can greatly reduce the above prices. Chances are that your entire harness from the firewall to the rear lights is still good. It is tucked up there pretty good and unless some critter got ahold of it, they normally survive intact. Plus, the military spec wire is a lot more expensive than just regular old 10 or 12 gauge wire. The insulation is different and I am pretty sure the military wire is aluminum core instead of copper. Use your old connectors, rear harness and buy 100 feet of regular auto wire and you are done except for making pretty water tight splices all over the place.

Print out the wire number list, Joes diagram and the diagram Jon posted. Study them like they hold the secret of life and then spend a weekend making it work. By the way, I tied the big F wire (power supply to the 3 lever) in to my 12 v at the supply post on the back of my GM 12si alternator. My alternator is on the drivers side and the F wire is just the right length to go to it. Of course, if you still have the foot start switch, just tie it in there.