Third time's a charm...but it will be slow going

[jeeper]

I found a seat bracket for a CJ 7 in my parts pile. It isn't really all that close of a fit but I think I'm going to modify it to make it work for now.

I'm still looking for a stock seat bracket. I'm pretty sure I never had it so I will need to start searching on-line I guess.

I ordered a dual alternator bracket for the LBZ engine. I ordered an extension bracket for the sugar scoop.

I started looking at the M35 wire harness I have here. I need to do a bunch more reading I guess. I don't see how this is going to work yet.



I spent more time fiddling with my heater than I did working on the truck. I have a fairly quiet heater but I sometimes run two heaters when it gets really cold. The quiet heater is 80,000 BTU and the normal torpedo heater is 115,000. This year the torpedo heater doesn't want to stay running. I ordered some new parts for it today as well.

[jeeper]

lost post? Anyone else having trouble seeing new posts?

[jeeper]

I got the motor mounts relocated higher on the frame. I am not finished yet though. It is apparent that the steel on the inside of the frame isn't going to be enough to support the engine as I have the mounts installed currently. I need to add some gussets and re-enforce it. The frame had already started to get pulled out simply from the weight of the engine at rest. Once this thing starts bouncing I'm pretty sure the metal will tear out if I don't make it more solid. I will eventually (maybe today) be getting some rubber installed in between the engine side and the frame side of the mount. I will also use a larger bolt of at least 9/16 or maybe 5/8 grade 8. The current 3/8 bolt is just there to keep the engine anchored while I'm adjusting the transmission into position.



I'm now closer to three inches of clearance between the oil pan and the axle with the weight of the engine on the springs since the mount was raised. Once I get the rubber in I'm expecting to be closer to four inches of clearance. I will then get some bump stops made to protect the pan from the axle, just in case this truck ever gets launched or driven hard.




More to come later today I hope.

[jeeper]

One more thing before I head out to the garage today. I started to look for videos or forum posts about the CUCV electrical system. I keep getting distracted and haven't seen a lot but I did see a video from Tim that describes the dual alternators and the 24 volt portion of the CUCV.

If anyone has any links they'd care to share about how to set up a dual voltage truck I'd be interested. From what I've gathered so far I need to have at least one isolated ground alternator. I'm wondering if I can modify an existing alternator to be isolated ground myself. I will probably start searching for how to do that this evening.

[jeeper]

I started the day off modifying the seat bracket I found to fit flat in the floor of the cab.





Then I moved on to adding the rubber spacer to the motor mounts.



And I got the transmission mount started.



I verified the steering shaft will fit with the engine in it's current location.

[jeeper]

I need to find a grommet for the firewall where the wires come through.



And I started to look into what it may take to modify an alternator to be isolated ground. The alternator on the left is I believe 124 amp and seems to be the same mounting style and dimensions as the newer one on the right.



And what the belt routing will be once the second alternator is installed on the engine.

[jeeper]

Not a lot of progress today. Lots of thinking/planning and goofing off. I need to modify my transmission cross member. I figured it would be a problem but is much easier to see when looking from the front pinion back to the transfer case output shaft.



I figured out a couple body mount bolts for the rear bolts and got them installed. No pics of that.

I was goofing off and looking up isolated ground alternators and I stumbled across a video about making a welder out of an alternator. I have already done this in the past but this one was built with the same DR 44 alternator I have on hand. It got me thinking. I can ditch the internal rectifier and accomplish an isolated ground alternator by doing so. I don't really need to build it as a welder. I could just use the external rectifier but for not that much more work I could incorporate another welder. I'm leaning in that direction at the moment. In the comments of the video I read something that would probably incorporate into my design if I do go this route. I followed the link to watch his video.

[Kaiserjeeps]

I believe I might have a drivers seat bracket maybe 2 even and a brand new CUCV isolated ground alternator. I sold my CUCV a long time ago. You can have the seat bracket for shipping and I would have to see what I paid for the alternator. Then cut you a good deal if you are interested. I like to buy high and sell low...LOL I would need to check the numbers on the alternator though to make sure. I will look tomorrow afternoon on my return. I think I would make it all 12 volts if I had to for simplicity. ISSPRO makes really high quality gauges that look right for the M truck. I think I have pictures of them in my build thread. Stewart warner has tanked in quality. I will never buy them again. But carry on if you want a 12/24 system. It has been done. That hole in the firewall had a metal plate that had three holes with grommets in them. One big hole and two smaller ones. I can get a pic if you need. Everything is looking great.

[jeeper]

Thanks for the input. Thinking about simplicity is always good. It occurred to me today that adding the complexity of dual voltage may add a problem that doesn't exist on a CUCV. My Duramax starter is 12 volts and pretty much all 6.6 liter Duramax diesels need 2 batteries to crank the 12 volt starter over. If I leave my current starter as 12 volts I'd potentially need a total of 4 batteries. Yikes! I need to think about this more for sure.

I don't think a CUCV alternator (27SI) would be a simple bolt on for me. I believe the mounting is different as well as the pulley. Anyway, I'm pretty sure I can isolate the ground of my DR44 alternator using the external rectifier if I do proceed with dual voltage.

I'd gladly pay shipping for a stock seat bracket. I'm afraid I may end up buying another complete truck to get all the pieces I'm missing at this point.

It's probably time I write down what parts I'd like to complete this truck. I'd like a drivers seat bracket, a gauge panel for the dash, an on-off switch lever with label, a grill/brush guard, rear bumperettes a front bumper and D ring shackles. I'll probably be adding to this list as I think of things I don't currently have but would like.

[Kaiserjeeps]

Sorry about the late reply. I know you are in a different time zone back there. And I got after the parts search a bit late. So I found the drivers seat mount. It was welded to a race seat when I got the truck. I had cut and sanded back all the welds so it has a bunch of missing paint but is pretty intact and no booger welds left. I did finally find the seat slides. I don't think they are original but they might be. I ended up using wagoneer X model bucket seat mounts and some custom fabbing with strap steel like the x model wag stuff. on my truck. Anyway.. your cab looks like it was pretty stripped before blasting. I found the metal heater covers that bolt to the firewall. If you are not using a heater to occupy those holes and yours are missing, I can throw those cover plates in. The big round electrical pass through hole. You are missing the plate I described. I will include a picture of mine. Do you want me to make you one? I could trace out mine and duplicate it if you want. It would take a day or so to get it done. I have all the sheet metal tools to knock it out pretty fast. Have a look at the pictures and let me know on the electrical plate. Eventually PM me your mailing address. I will get everything boxed and sent. When I do I will send a tracking number. I hope it helps.