Giving up on the tornado

[teberhard]

60 MPH is pushing the envelope. If the carburetor is now up to snuff, how about the timing? I have my timing set too far advanced. It pings a fair amount and I am not saying that you should go there. But advanced timing has given my truck som zip!

I checked the timing and according to the timing light it was 24 degrees advanced. Turned the distributor as much as I could to get it to 12 advanced and it ran really crappy so something is up with the damper maybe. Making the timing marks not accurate.

[Don Cavey]

...Making the timing marks not accurate.

Since the damper is rubber mounted, it is quite possible that the timing marks have moved.

[teberhard]

Thanks for all the input so far.

I came across a good running m1008. Cab is rusty but thinking this might be a good donor truck to take the whole drive line, axles, power steering, power brakes. Pretty much everything I can use. I think I can pick it up for 1800. thinking thats a decent deal??

I have seen several 6.2 swaps but haven't come across any threads where some used a whole cucv truck. I figured this would be the easiest way to do it having an entire truck instead of grabbing a piece here or there. What do you guys think. Might message Barrman. He seems to have good experience with the 6.2 swap.

[venominjected]

Thanks for all the input so far.

I came across a good running m1008.

I have seen several 6.2 swaps but haven't come across any threads where some used a whole cucv truck.

Long as your honest with yourself. Rusty truck is a rusty brakes, bad seals, and its a 6.2 diesel so tone your expectations accordingly.

The 6.2 diesel I believe doesn't get credit where credit is due. Its a great motor when its used/judged correctly. Its pretty much an MPG getter... with great low end torque but starts to fall flat on its face on the high end RPM.

It's not a towing motor by any means. While tuning will help liven it up... it will also accelerate its demise (see cracked blocks/crank bearing failure)

In will move a 715 nicely and the motor is simple stupid to work on and if used correctly (As an MPG cruiser and very light tow duty) will service its purpose reliably.

The Turbo 400 behind the 6.2L and the NP208 are both reliable and plentiful to replace if need be.

Top speed will still be limited to 45-55 mph pending tire selection. Anything faster than 2800 RPM the 6.2L diesel starts to go into no-mans land.

Axles are very nice to work with but the 4.56 gears is the speed limiter.

EDIT: I have every intention of owning a M1008/M1009.... great vehicles/powertrains.

[teberhard]

Well here we go... I passed on the m1008. it was just more then I wanted to spend on a 6.2 swap especially when a mechanic I know came across a good running 85 chevy van with a 6.2/700r4 combo. He said if you can pull it you can have it. He told me they are a pain to pull from those vans and he was right. Luckily it didn't have to go back in so out came the torches and sawzall and pulled it this weekend. Ordered novak engine mounts(more as a time saver then anything else).

Going to pull the tornado/t98 this weekend and begin the prep work.

Biggest questions now are the wiring for the 6.2 and the glow pug system. Also, the driveshaft from 700r4 to np200.

[venominjected]

Well here we go... I passed on the m1008. it was just more then I wanted to spend on a 6.2 swap especially when a mechanic I know came across a good running 85 chevy van with a 6.2/700r4 combo. He said if you can pull it you can have it. He told me they are a pain to pull from those vans and he was right. Luckily it didn't have to go back in so out came the torches and sawzall and pulled it this weekend. Ordered novak engine mounts(more as a time saver then anything else).

Going to pull the tornado/t98 this weekend and begin the prep work.

Biggest questions now are the wiring for the 6.2 and the glow pug system. Also, the driveshaft from 700r4 to np200.

Glow plug system I would begin to source/research a manual override/relay system. Simple to install and you no longer have the "glow plug controller/card/fail issues.

AKA You'll push and hold a momentary button switch on the dash for 10 seconds prior to starting... let said button go... turn key to start... VIOLA party on.

I believe the military crowd calls in the Doghead Relay for the m1008.

Driveshaft to np200 will just be an extremely short shaft. measure and contact local driveshaft manufacturer... done.

700r4 while not a towing transmission... the overdrive will save that 6.2 from demise.... good choice.

[Barrman]

There were 3 distinctly different glow plug systems for the 6.2.

1982-1987 or so civilian trucks had a controller screwed into the drivers side head rear water jacket next to the vacuum pump. A circular plug with 5 or 8 wires attached at the top. Then the relay was over on the drivers fender. It was a mess and you do not want to live with it.

CUCV system. When working, I think it is the best of the bunch. However, it cost a good bit to make them work all the time.

1988 and up. This is the easiest and cheapest option if starting from scratch. It is supposed to bolt to the head above the same water jacket port the old system used to screw into. It is a combination relay and controller all in one. Big battery power wire in and smaller wires out to the glow plugs. With 4 12 gauge wires to turn it on, sense when the starter is used, light up the wait light and ground. I put the part number in my 6 year old thread of putting a 6.2 in my M715. I don't know the part number by memory. Sorry.

The push button self timer thing only really works if you have Delco 60G glow plugs in. Anything else is not self regulating and will probably end up failing, swelling or bursting on you. None are good options.

The Doghead relay is a method to remove the stock GM CUCV starter relay and replace it with a lawn mower relay. It is for the starting system where the 12 and 24 volts parts of the truck mesh and bad things happen if the stock GM heater relay repurposed as a starter relay sticks on. All the magic smoke gets let out normally.


If are getting a 6.2 from a truck. Don't take any wires off the engine. Instead, unbolt the big wire blocks from the firewall where it bolts into the back of the fuse panel. I think it takes a 10 mm socket to get the bolt out. Once unbolted, you will see how the big wire block is actually 3 block puzzle pieces stuck together. Engine is the biggest piece. Front wires and rear wires for the lights are the others. Take it apart and keep all the wires on the engine.

I would also suggest leaving the engine and transmission together as a single unit too. No TV cable recalibration needed then.