230 Rear Main Seal Leaking

[Nailhead]

I noticed the clutch cover plug hole is dripping on my truck, so I'm wondering if it's possible to change out the rear main seal without pulling the engine. My winch bumper is welded to the frame, so it's difficult to get a hoist close enough to the engine to lift it.

Thanks for any help, especially if it turns out I don't have to pull the engine.

[kwai]

Probably faster to pull the engine. Also makes it easy to get at the rear oil line. And to clean and paint the engine. And replace the valve cover gasket. And replace the water pump and bypass hose. And replace the manifold to exhaust pipe gasket. And replace the motor mounts.

Oh, nevermind. It only seems faster.

[jokerwild12345]

I was able to change my rear main seal with out pulling the engine but I was able to use a carlift , dropped the oil pan and the two piece seal housing spun right out but the had to cut oil pan gasket at the ends because in didn't remove timing cover end but a little rtv sealed it at the end

[Nailhead]

I was able to change my rear main seal with out pulling the engine but I was able to use a carlift , dropped the oil pan and the two piece seal housing spun right out but the had to cut oil pan gasket at the ends because in didn't remove timing cover end but a little rtv sealed it at the end

Thank you very much-- I'll keep that in mind.

[Don Cavey]

Come on guys, that leaking rear main seal is a built in function. The Tornado 230 has a self-changing oil function! You never have to change oil. (Which reminds me, my oil needs to be changed )

Seriously, good info and thanks!

[Nailhead]

Come on guys, that leaking rear main seal is a built in function. The Tornado 230 has a self-changing oil function! You never have to change oil. (Which reminds me, my oil needs to be changed )

Seriously, good info and thanks!

So this engine is kind of like an old Harley, then: oil leaks are just part of the package?

I don't want to go to the trouble if it's going to start dripping again while I'm backing it out of the shop.

[Nailhead]

Probably faster to pull the engine. Also makes it easy to get at the rear oil line. And to clean and paint the engine. And replace the valve cover gasket. And replace the water pump and bypass hose. And replace the manifold to exhaust pipe gasket. And replace the motor mounts.

Oh, nevermind. It only seems faster.

Thanks, Kwai...I think.

The rear oil line was replaced with a 3/8 copper/Swagelok compression combo before the engine/trans went in the truck. It seems to be working great.

The new valve cover gasket on that engine ensures that any new paint would be pretty quickly hidden by oil & dust. It seems to me it was designed to keep gravel, bugs, cartridge cases, etc., from getting in, not to prevent oil from getting out.

The water pump is working perfectly, the bypass hose will be replaced next week, and the manifold gasket was replaced when the engine went in. The engine mounts look alright.

The problem is, I can't get the front clip off the truck because of the way the winch bumper is mounted, which means the engine/trans has to be lifted over the sheetmetal "hoop" behind the radiator, all while the engine hoist is maxed out and about 14" too far back. It's really no fun at all seeing that all that weight that high up and knowing how quickly it could all go wrong.

[Von]

As long as it is still leaking you are good go. It's when it stops that you have a problem.

Ha Ha! Been telling both my stepsons that for years... they still haven't caught on.

It's really no fun at all seeing that all that weight that high up and knowing how quickly it could all go wrong.

Yikes! Loaned my cherry picker to a guy, he is putting a 12v Cummins in an old square body Chevy dually. Had the lift extended all the way out with that 12v on it, he was standing on the back of the lift... When the 12v won that battle it launched him across his yard.
he still hasn't told me whether or not my cherry picker got bent up...

[Nailhead]

Ha Ha! Been telling both my stepsons that for years... they still haven't caught on.





Yikes! Loaned my cherry picker to a guy, he is putting a 12v Cummins in an old square body Chevy dually. Had the lift extended all the way out with that 12v on it, he was standing on the back of the lift... When the 12v won that battle it launched him across his yard.
he still hasn't told me whether or not my cherry picker got bent up...

I get the leakage principle stated above, but in my experience seal leakage doesn't diminish as time goes by and like I said, I just want to take care of my clutch.

Von, we had that cherry picker at max height, and the rear wheels were off the ground. I actually had a hand grinder in hand, ready to cut the sheet metal in front of the radiator out. It worked out, though, with a whole lotta luck.

[Duane]

I changed my rear main without pulling the engine rather easy, it took a half a Saturday, 2000 miles later, it always has a drop hanging from the bellhousing drain plug. If you read the m715 quirks manual it tells you to leave the bellhousing drain plug out unless fording, if not, the oil that seeps from the rear main will eventually fill up and get on the clutch. A better indicator to see how much it is really leaking is by checking the dipstick. I don't have to add any oil to my truck between oil changes, and I change my oil every year, about 1000 miles. If you are trying to achieve a no leak stock m715, good luck, its been tried by many, and am not sure if achieved by any, at least not long term.

Duane