I am also interested in the lower priced version. Good luck and thanks!
Just a resurrection of this thread. Not trying to beat a dead horse, but eventually need to either get some made or get my original ducts back.
Absolutely. I have been messing with molding them unsuccessfully. I have a call to make this week to a friend that does blow molding to see what he would charge to set these up to make a run, as so far everyone's quotes have been outrageous and trying to get these under $200 is seemingly impossible, but I haven't given up yet.
I am also going to pursue making these in halves and using a process similar to the OEM way of joining the two halves with an chemical bond that "melts" the two halves together causing s perfect seam.
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measurements of stock duct? (I'd be hard pressed we cant find another OEM something to bolt right in...)
67' M715/5.9 Cummins/ZF5/NP205
The problem is the offset of the inlet to clear the glove box on the right, and the light switch on the left.
If it wasn't for that, then something like you have pictured would work.
Or just use FSJ defroster ducts.
I ended up making a set from shopvac nozzles. I wish that I had taken pictures of the process.
1 1/2" hose by the way.
We used the defroster ducts out of the J-truck that donated my heater & hood. They fit okay, they do their job, but they are NOT compatible with the military headlight switch. No problem in my case, because we used an aftermarket headlight switch installed to the right of the column.
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Enroll in your local tech college in the class that does 3D printing. Learn how to 3D print your nozzles and you can make as few or many as you need.
This is the perfect 3D printing project.
KWAI- issue is not being able to print them we have lots of FOTUS machines that are used for some high quality work. The issue is the cost of them by the time they are finished because of three things. 1. Print time is over 34hrs 2. Amount of support material needed and post processing and 3. Amount of high quality material that will hold up to the heat and not crack/melt.
The method I am working on now wont be as pretty, but should work when processed and "bound" together.
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