2 issues I really need help with.

[David Zelinski]

Hi everyone.
I'm in dire need of help. I have two issues that I can't seem to correct.

#1- New clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing. Stock 230 motor. Lots of good pedal travel and throw out bearing moves but pressure plate and friction plate never disengage. Is it possible that I installed the friction plate backwards? Is that possible? Anyone have this problem before? Also, it looks like my brand new throw out bearing slung some grease. Is that normal? I know this because I painted the inside of the bellhousing and cover GM red-orange (for just such a problem).

#2- Door window "wiper" trim. I bought the nice set from BJ's Offroad. Beautiful items. Too bad I mangled them trying to get the roll down windows installed causing me to buy yet another complete new set. It's as if the rubber lip is too big to get the window frame to pass through. Are they supposed to go on AFTER the window is installed?

Thanks ya' all. I'm just tired of buying parts 2 and 3 times lately.

As a bright note - Major crazy props to "Restoration Specialties" out of Pa. They did a quick turn around and beautiful job on my door window track "fuzzys".

Dave-

[Barrman]

I can only say that Chevy window felt goes on better with the glass installed and some silicone spray used.

Can you see the clutch pressure plate pull back? Or just feel it.

[jeepdan]

Dave,
-I'm pretty sure that I installed the glass first, then put the weather strips onto the top of the doors. You can remove that stop bracket to allow the glass to travel further down out of the way some.

-As for the clutch throw out bearing, did you use one of the old NOS bearings that came in a sealed "tuna can"?
I did, and mine had a slight amount grease oozing past the seal before even installing it.

-There was an old post on here about a member that had a similar problem with the clutch not releasing properly. I will try to do more research.

[DAVEJ]

Bean 101 Dec 28 2011 Clutch issues

That is the post ,he had the same issues,was a bad pressure plate.

[gerrykan]

It is possible for the friction plate to stick to the flywheel due to some rust on the flywheel.

It generally happens with a newly surfaced flywheel and then the project sits during the rest of the build process.

If there is an inspection hole where the flywheel and disc meet, they can usually be separated by person A inserting a screwdriver(or similar device) while person B pushes the clutch pedal.

This does not rule out a bad pressure plate, just one possibility that I have seen happen a couple of times.

[gerrykan]

I did break one loose on a J10 by the following method, if the vehicle is able to be driven.

Try this at your own risk.

Start the motor in neutral and warm it up.

Shut off motor, and place the transmission in gear.

Restart motor with transmission in gear. WARNING: The truck will start moving when the motor starts.

Depress the clutch pedal and hold to the floor while accelerating and decelerating the motor.

If you can heel-n-toe the gas and brake pedal while holding the clutch down may also help.

Obviously you need a low traffic area to do this, and be ready to hit the ignition switch if you need to stop quickly.

[Nailhead]

Hi everyone.
I'm in dire need of help. I have two issues that I can't seem to correct.

#1- New clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing. Stock 230 motor. Lots of good pedal travel and throw out bearing moves but pressure plate and friction plate never disengage. Is it possible that I installed the friction plate backwards? Is that possible? Anyone have this problem before? Also, it looks like my brand new throw out bearing slung some grease. Is that normal? I know this because I painted the inside of the bellhousing and cover GM red-orange (for just such a problem).

#2- Door window "wiper" trim. I bought the nice set from BJ's Offroad. Beautiful items. Too bad I mangled them trying to get the roll down windows installed causing me to buy yet another complete new set. It's as if the rubber lip is too big to get the window frame to pass through. Are they supposed to go on AFTER the window is installed?

Thanks ya' all. I'm just tired of buying parts 2 and 3 times lately.

As a bright note - Major crazy props to "Restoration Specialties" out of Pa. They did a quick turn around and beautiful job on my door window track "fuzzys".

Dave-

Dave, when we pulled the engine out of the parts truck to put on my own, we noticed the pilot bearing had seized to the transmission input shaft.

We installed a new pilot bearing in the good engine, and stabbed the other, better trans with much more effort than I remember that process involving on other vehicles.

After getting the assembly set in the truck, we had exactly the same problem: no neutral. I checked freeplay and operation from below, and all was as it should be, so I concluded that the pilot bearing was binding on the input shaft, and this is what we did: on jack stands, two of us turned the rear wheels in the same direction, while the other sat in the cab with the clutch pedal depressed. It took five or ten minutes of this, but it did eventually do the trick. Before we did this, we thought the engine would have to come out again, I had (have) NO interest in that.

I think that seized pilot bearing I found indicates that the bearings tend to be drilled too small, and this "no neutral" effect is the result.

[Mikel]

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