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Thread: Head gasket

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    Mt. Prospect, Illinois 60056
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    Default Head gasket

    Need some help here. Have a blown head gasket and not sure what path to follow. Do I take my truck to someone who has the knowledge and equipment to replace it, or attempt it myself. Not a young man anymore, so leaning in the engine bay with two knee replacements may not be the best thing. With only 15 minutes running time on my oil change, my oil is the classic milk shake color. I'm certain the backfiring of the carb did in an already on its way out gasket. Had my #5 and #6 wires reversed. Probably sounds crazy, but I think the three or four backfires blew out the head gasket that was most likely going bad to begin with. It's really a shame because once I got the fuel pump fixed the truck started right up and idled perfectly.
    While I like to do my own work on the truck as much as possible, I don't think I have the expertise or experience to tackle this job in my garage. At this point I'm not even sure where to find someone to work on it. My biggest concern is the removal of the exhaust manifold bolts, as they are pretty rusted. I would think for a experienced truck mechanic, this is a fairly straight forward job. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
    militarypotts Spec/4 Military Police, Vietnam Era, "Does the noise in my head bother you? Welcome to the Twilight Zone!"

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    Default

    Not being the expert, I will await others to offer opinions. I guess the one thing that is most important if it really is the head gasket is to be sure that the head is straight, no dips warping and that the block deck is also straight. If either of them is not, you may just run into the same issue a few miles down the road.

    Since it is an overhead cam engine, I suspect that not much can be machined off of the head without causing valve train issues. I know that cam has a chain tensioner but to what extent.

    I don't have my books here in MD right now but will look through our online manuals and see if there is information on machining the head and/or block. Of course, if the block needs to be decked, that means removal and there goes a lot of work.

    After some replies, I guess you will need to make the decision as to whether you are up to it. I know that bending over isn't fun.

  3. #3
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    Here is the info about the block and head. Basically, they say don't machine either one. So, if yours is just a blown gasket and both the head and block are within spec, you should be good to go.

    Of course, I am sure that you know that our military engine uses a slightly different head gasket. I don't know the difference but it is always pointed out.


  4. #4
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    Default

    Thanks Don, the info above makes it quite clear that their will be no machining of the surface area between block and head. As for the head gasket itself, is this something I should source out and have it when I find someone to do the job? Also, what about a the intake gasket? I'm hoping someone on this site can explain a step by step process to me. I'm sorry to have to ask them, but for me, this is a major repair and the more info I have the better off I'll be when finding someone to do the work. At the present time I don't even have much of a starting point. Hope everyone bears with me.
    militarypotts Spec/4 Military Police, Vietnam Era, "Does the noise in my head bother you? Welcome to the Twilight Zone!"

  5. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by militarypotts View Post
    Thanks Don, the info above makes it quite clear that their will be no machining of the surface area between block and head. As for the head gasket itself, is this something I should source out and have it when I find someone to do the job? Also, what about a the intake gasket? I'm hoping someone on this site can explain a step by step process to me. I'm sorry to have to ask them, but for me, this is a major repair and the more info I have the better off I'll be when finding someone to do the work. At the present time I don't even have much of a starting point. Hope everyone bears with me.
    Dick, I wonder if a compression test would render any clue? Often if there is a head gasket leak, you should see bubbles in the radiator. You might also try draining some oil to see if the antifreeze is there. Do that maybe before starting the truck because water is heaver than oil and should sink to the bottom. You gotta change oil again if you do the head gasket. I would do this with a cold engine. If you start it up, the stuff will get all mixed up again.

    The intake gasket and exhaust gaskets are not special. I have some of them in Florida and would be happy to send what I have to you for free. However, you may be able to just disconnect the exhaust at the pipe and leave the exhaust manifold connected. Also, you should be able to leave the intake manifold connected to the head. I would remove the carburetor. You don't want that thing buggered up.

    The valve cover gasket is somewhat obscure but they are out there. If your valve cover gasket is relatively new, it can probable be used again. Maybe even a little silicone on it to reseal it. If the valve cover ... um ... they call it a "Rocker Cover" has not been torqued down excessively, a gasket can often survive a second usage.

    The -34 manual online is an excellent source of how to do the head gasket.

    If any of you guys see anything wrong with my comments, please, please come forward. Dick needs some help here!

  6. #6

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    Did you do pressure up each cylinder to see if any bubbles came up in the radiator yet. cylinder leak down test.

  7. #7
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    As I told Don in a message, my son who works in a large Chevrolet dealership as the head service writer, told me to go and talk to the people at Barnes automotive. I did today and they know all about my truck from the shows that I do. They've been in business for 30+ years, and work mostly on classic cars and trucks. Some of the stuff they work on is in the $100,000 range and more. Chuck (the owner) told me he'd be honored to work on the truck. This shop is like the ones you see on TV, clean, neat, with everything in its place. They build race engines there also. I left there with a very good feeling that the truck will be in good hands. I know this is probably a poor way of doing the repair in the eyes of other zoner's, but I know my limitations as far as expertise and being able to do something like this in my small garage. My new knees also limit me a little bit. I never wimp out on any challenge, but this was most likely more than I could handle. Hope you guys don't look down on me for my decision. Believe me when I tell you, it was hard for me to even put this in a post after seeing some of the work other zoner's have put into their own trucks. If I was a lot younger and had more room, I may have attempted this project on my own, but it just wasn't meant to be. I'll surely keep everyone informed of the progress. The truck will be flat bedded over to the shop (which by the way is in my hometown) in about 10 days. They are very busy now and don't want the truck until they can go right to work on it. Thank you Don and Dan for all your correspondence, I can't tell you how I appreciate it. This site will always be #1.
    militarypotts Spec/4 Military Police, Vietnam Era, "Does the noise in my head bother you? Welcome to the Twilight Zone!"

  8. #8

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    I will help anyway that I can.
    Wish that I lived closer.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by militarypotts View Post
    As I told Don in a message, my son who works in a large Chevrolet dealership as the head service writer, told me to go and talk to the people at Barnes automotive. I did today and they know all about my truck from the shows that I do. They've been in business for 30+ years, and work mostly on classic cars and trucks. Some of the stuff they work on is in the $100,000 range and more. Chuck (the owner) told me he'd be honored to work on the truck. This shop is like the ones you see on TV, clean, neat, with everything in its place. They build race engines there also. I left there with a very good feeling that the truck will be in good hands. I know this is probably a poor way of doing the repair in the eyes of other zoner's, but I know my limitations as far as expertise and being able to do something like this in my small garage. My new knees also limit me a little bit. I never wimp out on any challenge, but this was most likely more than I could handle. Hope you guys don't look down on me for my decision. Believe me when I tell you, it was hard for me to even put this in a post after seeing some of the work other zoner's have put into their own trucks. If I was a lot younger and had more room, I may have attempted this project on my own, but it just wasn't meant to be. I'll surely keep everyone informed of the progress. The truck will be flat bedded over to the shop (which by the way is in my hometown) in about 10 days. They are very busy now and don't want the truck until they can go right to work on it. Thank you Don and Dan for all your correspondence, I can't tell you how I appreciate it. This site will always be #1.
    Sounds like you have found a good place to take your truck to

    I certainly won't look down on your decision, as it is going to be a dirty, back breaking job.

    I just kind of cringe at what the price will be in the end.

  10. #10
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    I cringe also Dan. Luckily, my truck has been good to me for all the years I've had it. I'm hoping that when I get it back I'll have a mostly problem free motor again. It was most likely time for this to be done anyway. At this point, I'm not even sure it's a head gasket. My knowledge tells me it is. On Friday, I drained the oil, jacked up the front of the truck to get whatever was left in the pan to flow towards the drain hole. Last night I stuck a rag in the drain hole to try and wick out whatever was left. Soon as I put the rag in the hole, pure water came out. Is this a clue? Being that the truck is up in front and the water in the radiator and hoses flowed back towards the motor. My oil in the drain pan is the classic milk shake look. A radiator and engine flush is sure in order here. The guys at the shop wanted to know if I wanted the engine detailed when I get it back. They were talking about painting the block, head, valve cover, etc. My motor is in great shape (looks wise). Not sure if I want them to make it look brand new. I would imagine they'll degrease it, even though I really don't see much oil or grease anywhere. They even told me they'd install the Pertronix ignition kit I have, that I never installed because the truck always ran so good. I think I may let them do it as long as they're working on the truck and setting the timing and all. Yes Dan, I cringe at all of this, but I just don't have much of a choice here, and selling the truck was not an option at this point.
    militarypotts Spec/4 Military Police, Vietnam Era, "Does the noise in my head bother you? Welcome to the Twilight Zone!"

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