Ford Dana 60/Sterling 10.25 vs. Others

[venominjected]

Guys,

I've gone thru the dana 60 bible and gone thru the forums regarding axle swaps.
(NOTE This entire thread only applies to sub 99' axle years as after isn't applicable nor work with metric bolt patterns)

One question... besides the transfer case drop change from OEM... why aren't more people running Ford Dana 60's? (Only thing different is driver side drop and ball joint vs. kingpin)

Few questions....

regarding previous threads on the 715zone... everyone says to use a DRW front Dana 60... why DRW?.... a SRW has the same leaf spring perch width...

Is there steering issues with the Ford axle regarding linkages?
Is there actual track width issues running SRW axles and hubs?

The rear Sterling 10.25 should be regarding as "almost" as acceptable as a 14 bolt regarding strength... so wash there.


Here is why I'm asking... thinking of an M715, thinking of putting in a 94-97 F350 SRW axle package into it... which then puts me into a driver side drop transfer case.

Which also happens to be the side the modern NV5600 and G56 transmissions and NP231 transfer cases that dodge used (driver side drop)

Plan is to mate a modern manual G56 with an old school 12valve 5.9 Cummins (non intercooled for simplicity) and run fords common 4.10 gearing.

What am I missing? The front should bolt RIGHT in... the back I'll reweld the perch pads, and steering issues?

I'm not using this thing to plow... nor really offroad heavy... is the balljoint setup vs kingpin REALLY that much weaker vs. say GM CUCV axles?

It also gives me parts availablity that is 10 years newer (more plentiful) regarding brake,balljoint, and servicing.

Could care less about having drums out back vs. discs.

[maskale]

the king pin is generally accepted as stronger. But the ball joints will be fine unless you are really beating on it, which you said you wont. What tire size you going to run? Bigger tires means more strain and wear.

The driver drop is probably your biggest reason for not seeing more people using the ford axle.

The 14B is very respected, but the sterling is also a good axle, put a small weld your tubes to the pumpkin.

What year did they go to coils? Coil spring axles are harder to implement.

I wouldn't worry about parts, they are out there.

I cant say why they would say DRW over SW, did you see that mentioned more then once? The recommendation for DRW must of been for a specific application, like hummer wheels that have a large offset.

I cant comment on steering issues.

91.5 and earlier have kingpins.

[TXfirefighter]

Running the DRW hubs gives you a wider WMS-WMS over the SRW hubs

[md1970]

(Running the DRW hubs gives you a wider WMS-WMS over the SRW hubs)

I didnt find this the case, in order to run "stock" offset hummer rims i had to use drw hubs in front and srw hubs in rear. drw hubs set the rims way to far "in" and wouldnt even bolt up hub to rim on back axle.

[venominjected]

The idea with my intended wheel package is plain jane simple.

CUCV (GM) standard 16x6.5wide rims....


Not planning on running big wheels or tires.
Not planning on any lift except the spring over
Yes I'll have somewhat empty wheel wells....

Will I have WMS or OFFSET issues with running simple narrow 33"s?

Mileage and eventually towing and wood hauling will be in its future...both on and off highway.... hence a nice M/T load range E that is bearable on-highway.

Will have x100 more miles on road then off... but needs to simply do both.

I'd like to hook up an m101a2 trailer when the M715 is complete... and then also have MATCHING wheels/tires there also... so in such an event... a spare tire is a spare tire for both the m715 and the m101a2 trailer.....

Think "this" with an M715 vs. CUCV (notice all rims/tires/lugs/nuts are the exact same...and I want that for that specific reason) [eventually pintle tow an m101a2 trailer]



all the same 8x6.5 pattern... 16" x 6.5"w rim running exact same tires...

i'll simply be just upsizing the tires to a 33-34" tire... (285/75R16 or a 255/85R16 Load range E mud terrain tire on all 6 locations + 1 spare.


(255/85R16 fits nice on the narrow 6.5" rim)
Both examples below are 255/85R16

[Subybaja]

I'm running that exact combo, and it's great. The BJ front gets a bad rap from big-block rockbouncers on Pirate, but it's pushing my 37s fine (along with legions of F350s). It's also HP, so your driveshaft is a little bit farther up. +

The 10.25 is a wash with the 14b. The 14 has an extra pinion bearing, and adjusters make gear setup easy. The 10.25 uses shims, but they're outside the bearings, so still pretty easy. It also has better ground clearance than the 14.

Get a 95-97 rear if you can, for the longer pinion. That was a weak point on the earlier ones.

With 10" wheels and .mil 37s, I can't help on the width.

[venominjected]

With 10" wheels and .mil 37s, I can't help on the width.

Your not running DRW axles though are you? (or DRW front, SRW rear)


I'm targeting 94-97 SRW F350 axles.

I drive on country highways and 5 miles of interstate to work and back.... I'd like to be able to take the 715 to work and back for fun and still accomplish something utilitarian on the weekends with the m715/m101a2 combo....

Hence the simplified wheel/tire package.. just want it to work, and hopefully the fabrication vs. CUCV axles isn't x10 harder. (perch and steering setup)

[Subybaja]

Nope, single.

[venominjected]

Nope, single.

Thanks for the verification...

The balljoint weakness up front (vs. kingpin) and (ford) sterling vs. the GM 14 bolt out back are pretty much a wash for me as this will be Daily Driver majority with utilitarian tow/haul/field mud vs. offroad rock crawl is the reasoning for opening up my window to Ford axles... (plus they seam to be just as easy to find as 1 ton chevy stuff... and x10 easier to find than CUCV setups.

Hopefully the steering stuff isn't too complicated vs. the GM.

Makes the 5.9L Cummins / G56 6 Speed/NP231 (Dodge Driver drop) powertrain a reality.

[Subybaja]

Could care less about having drums out back vs. discs.

2nd this. My Sterling drums happily lock up 37s (with boosted MC).

As for welding the tubes to the casting...I wouldn't bother. Pirate seems to be 50/50 on success vs/cracking, and it seems like an extreme measure for a DD.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/newbi...s-housing.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...xle-tubes.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...-iron-wtf.html

There are a couple seal upgrades for the front D60 that I think are worth the trouble:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...-dana-60s.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/ford/...l#post28344842

BTW, here's mine with 35x12.5r16.5 winter tires, probably 10" wheels (not sure).


And something to watch out for, re:wheels. Ford uses a big center hole, so Chevy 8-bolt stockers won't fit.
http://www.crawlpedia.com/bolt_patterns.htm

You might run your numbers through http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...g/S-PERCH.html is the best for perches/parts!