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Thread: Oil Line Blew

  1. #1

    Default Oil Line Blew

    Blew the oil line that runs from the back of the oil pressure-sending unit, to the back of the engine. Dose that hook up to the back of the valve cover? Where can I get one soon, and if it dose hook up to the back of the valve cover, a new valve cove gasket.
    Thanks, Nate

  2. #2

    Default

    No, it hooks up to the back of the block. I'll be honest, and sorry to say, that that short little hose is an absolute pain to change. I did it once, and I hope to never have to do it again, lol. I got mine from A.B. Linn.
    68 M-715
    67 M-725

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,528

    Default

    Personally, I wouldnt buy another NOS one...it will leak in a few months...mine did...I made one up from braided stainless line...you can get a hydraulics shop to make you one as well.

    The installation IS a total pain...I think I have it written up somewhere....I'll look for it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,528

    Default

    Take the bottom end of the line off the oil pressure sending unit on the passenger side of the block at the rear. The hose is your handle to take the top end off the back of the head. If you notice in the perfectly illustrated pic below, there is a right angle fitting that the hose connects to.



    (Note: The hose in the pic was made at NAPA according to the member who posted that image.)

    You want to take the hose from the lower passenger side of the compartment and raise it over the top of the engine in the clockwise direction and keep going that way until you break that right angle fitting loose and remove it from the motor.

    Take your new hose and thread it into the right angle adapter and use thread tape if needed to prevent leaking...you wont be back in here if you do it right this time and use a good hose to replace the stock one.

    To install: Get in a position where you can see down between the lip of the cowl and the back of the motor. Make sure this position is one you can stand to be in for a while....not just barely hanging on...if you lay atop the motor or stand on the front bumper or whatever...you really need to be in a comfortable position...as good as you can get.

    Take the new hose with some thread tape on the threads and with the right angle fitting attached and hold the long part of the hose to the lower drivers side of the engine...down by the starter...with your right hand. With the left hand, get the right angle piece lined up SQUARELY to the hole in the back of the head. Very important to get it dead square...its the key piece to making it all work...You need to have your left hand as low on the passenger side of the motor as you can and still hold the fitting squarely in the head.

    Now, rotate the long end of the hose up and around in the counter clockwise direction all the way past the top of the motor, as far to the passenger side as you can. If you have the fitting lined up, it should now be starting to thread into the hole in the head.
    Continue to turn the fitting with the hose until it gets kinda tight...dont hurt the hose obviously...then finish as best you can with a wrench or crows foot.


    It may take you a few to several tries to get this in and threaded...be patient and work slow and smooth...one big key is to be in a comfortable position...

    Hope that helps.

  5. #5

    Default

    Just close your eyes and let the force be with you. It most certialy a pain. I leve the 90 dregee fitting in the head ,turn it up just a little, and screw the new hose into it. then turn the fitting back down. I always keep a spare on the 725 just in case of a blow out. I ordered one from Memphis then took it to a hydrulic hose place and had a new made up. replace the old one with the new one and keep the one from memphis as a spare.

  6. #6

    Default

    Or you could do what the previous owner appears to have done on my truck.

    Cut a hole!!!

    Now where is my box of rubber plugs???


  7. #7

    Default

    Rick Pewe did an on the road article about a hose replacement outside Jacks gov't surplus a few years back. They ended up cutting a hole. It was on a road trip to somewhere in a M715. I wonder if a crows foot would help loosen the fittings. I'm sure I'll have the joy someday. Good luck and remember it's all in how you hold your tongue...
    Liz, covid, murdered 10/19/21

  8. #8

    Default Oil Line Blew

    Well, I got the thing out. It only took around 3 minuets, after I put down a piece of plywood down on top of the engine, to lie on. I had a new hose made at a tractor repair place for $20.03, not bad, Like Brutc4c shows, but im going to have to get a different fitting that goes into the engine, like what’s shown in the picture. The original is to short, and the metal collar on the new hose, hits right where the block and the valve cover connect. Ive gotten it started a dozen times, but as soon as it hits that valve cover, it pops back out. Ill try again tomorrow, its supposed to be in the upper 30’s, with rain. God I love my truck!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Huntingtown,Md.
    Posts
    444

    Default

    The one on my truck is metal, looks like copper, isn't leaking.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    west central wisconsin
    Posts
    315

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by airborne View Post
    The one on my truck is metal, looks like copper, isn't leaking.
    That is a interesting idea. I will be installing the engine in mine soon(hopefully). What are some opinions on the metal line from from some of the experienced M715 mechanics here. Would a metal line be the answer?

    DJ

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