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Thread: Hardtop rear window

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Posts
    213

    Default Hardtop rear window

    Need some help. I'm thinking it should be warm enough to work on my truck this weekend (don't currently have a heated garage) and I'm thinking about installing a rear window in my hardtop. The hard top that i have has a solid back to it and is kind of annoying when trying to go in reverse or check your rear view mirror for the pork patrol.

    I was thinking about using Plexy glass or lexon but im not sure how to mount it or how to make it water proof. Any ideas?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Mt. Prospect, Illinois 60056
    Posts
    2,299

    Default

    I would think that if you cut out the rear window at the size your looking for you could then pick up the window gasket (made of rubber like the front windshield) and fit it in the opening. This has a channel that would except the piece of plexiglass, maybe 1/4" thick? I suppose you could also pop rivet the glass, after drilling out the holes around the opening, and drilling out the matching holes in the plexiglass. A nice bead of silicone (clear) around the edge would seal out rain. These trucks are far from waterproof, so I think that would work well. Having a top without a rear window would seem to close in the interior of the truck way to much. Cutting the hole would definitely have the rough edges covered by the use of the rubber seal tho. Good luck. Someone else on this site may have an alternate route to take. Wait and see some of the other ideas that are bound to come along.
    militarypotts Spec/4 Military Police, Vietnam Era, "Does the noise in my head bother you? Welcome to the Twilight Zone!"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Stevens Pointski, Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,350

    Default

    Go to your local auto glass store and get some rubber window glass locking seal. They will know what you want. Then get a piece of safety glass or lexan cut the size you want. Draw an outline on your back cab, add about 1/4 inch around it, and cut it out. File sharp edges, then install window.

    http://www.mcmaster.com/#bulb-seals/=g2slch

    This video shows the separate lock strip. I'd buy the type that has the lock strip built in. I didn't search too deeply on youtube. You will get the idea.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1ilXMfyo7c

    Scott
    '67 M715 '67 M725 '69 M726 (x2)

    "it's cheap and you get all you can shove in your pie-hole" --Kozmo 12-10-13

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Bridgton, Maine
    Posts
    253

    Default

    Another option is to get a rear window from a fsj and take the rubber gasket from it. J10s and j20s are all over. Just cut to fit. This way instead of a solid piece you have sliders for more airflow. I know it's nice to have.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,531

    Default

    Interesting idea...if the window ever broke, there would be a replacement at the junkyard...
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Posts
    213

    Default

    thanks guys those are all great ideas. I guess ill figure out what the most economical method is and go that route. eventually i would like to make a custom fiberglass hardtop for it so maybe thats when ill use the FSJ rear window idea. I think for now i might just cut it and make it somewhat water tight without making it look too hill billy like. Thanks again.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Mt. Prospect, Illinois 60056
    Posts
    2,299

    Default

    Interesting video. I had my front window replaced at an automotive glass shop. Wasn't sure if I had the knowledge to do it myself. The correct tools make all the difference. Doesn't appear to hard to do. I payed about $100.00 for the new window, gasket, and labor. I thought that was a pretty good deal, so I went with it. Some things I just don't attempt, but I missed the good feeling of doing it myself. I think you now have enough info to make your decision. Good luck.
    militarypotts Spec/4 Military Police, Vietnam Era, "Does the noise in my head bother you? Welcome to the Twilight Zone!"

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Bridgton, Maine
    Posts
    253

    Default

    Tyson I have a window from a j20 and I go to southern CT a lot if it comes out easy enough I can take it out and bring it that far if you want it I am scraping the jeep (cab) an I see no sense in letting the window go to waist if you want it its yours

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Fort Smith, Arkansas
    Posts
    911

    Default

    Make sure you mount it a little higher than center. It won't look as good, but will be more useful. I have to scrunch down a little to see out mine and the rear view mirror I added is useless.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Fort Smith, Arkansas
    Posts
    911

    Default

    Also, cover all your inside glass if you're using a grinder. My glass is embedded with small bits of metal from when the fire dept did the metal work. Makes it hard to clean. I carry a small squeegee for use as a handheld defogger and the metal spots snag and leave streaks. Same problem with glass cleaner and paper towels. It just sucks that they did that.

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