6.2 diesel - alternator Q?

[Flingarrows]

Can one of you with a 6.2 running a V-belt confirm where the bottom bolt goes (block or head)? I have an alignment prob on the belt, it sits about 1/4" too far back.

My friend had all serpentine belts on his trucks, but he seems to remember it bolting to the block.

[chess]

it bolts on the head like some sbc's you and i have the same setup. from the look of the pic its mounted correctly. mine also sits back slightly but i never had a problem. if u ever need more juice get a cs144 off a camaro,caprice, impala from a junkyard all it needs it to swap pullies out and a diffenent plug. i did that since im running dual batteries and big lights etc...

[Barrman]

CUCV's got to the head too.

George, is there a gap at the top of the alternator where the slide bolt is? The picture makes it look that way. Just shim the bottom with some washers to tighten that gap up if there is a gap. What about really spacing it out and putting the alternator ear on the front side of the slot?

[Flingarrows]

Thanks Chess, good info.

Tim, I'm going to have to give that a close look. I don't think there is a gap on the top where it sits now, but it has been a week or two since I messed with it and I dont exactly remember.

I thought about moving it out front, but that will net about a 3/4" move forward. I am about 1/4" back now. I could mod the bracket to what I need, but it doesn't make sense that it is off that much.

I'm working from home tomorrow, I'll give it a close look at lunch time

[Flingarrows]

Tim, here are a few shot. They are a little clearer. The alt is butted up to the bracket. I did shim the bottom out a bit and looks like it helped. I have to get back to work, but may fire it up tonight if I get home from my son meet tonight at a decent time


This is a flat metal ruler laid across the pulleys before shimming

[Barrman]

George,
One of the guys over on SS was a military acceptance inspector at the Flint factory for the CUCV trucks when they were new. He continually post about how these vehicles were made by 2500 of the most un caring people you could ever find.

I truly believe that attitude was carried over to every facet of domestic vehicle production at that point in time. You very well could just have the "tolerance stack" working against you.

Say the upper bracket could be 1/8" either side of perfect. Then, the alternator could be 1/8" either side and the same with the bottom bracket. Plus, the water pump pulley. What if you just happen to have brackets at the edge of the "too small" tolerance and a pulley at the edge of the "too big" tolerance? You end up 1/4" off and everything is inside spec. If nothing else obvious jumps out at you, try a different pulley or upper bracket.

[Flingarrows]

That makes sense Tim. I tried 2 different pulleys on the WP, but the bracket is the constant

[wolf.dose]

I have bought original mountds for the generartors to ad the M1009 electric on my M715. I have experianced to have the right generaror mounts to be modified by some 1/4" to het them fit into line with the pulleys. Else the previous setting was eating V-belts like for breakfast. Since I did the modification, the belts show no real wear since 15000 miles.
Wolf

[CHRIS UNGER]

GM was famous in the 80's for using a little spacer here and a little spacer there. Just shim it to your liking and it should be fine.

[Flingarrows]

Thanks for the replies. I am looking for a way to verify the alignment of the pulleys. My calibrated eyes is giving me different reading depending on the angle

I don't have access to a laser alignment tool, but was going to make something similar to this tool http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0TxV-LxY6g out of a 1/4" steel rod and some bushings with set screws.

I think that will get me close, but if you guys know of an easier or better way, I'm all ears!