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Thread: 14bolt axle brake swap Q's

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    N/W mississippi
    Posts
    159

    Default 14bolt axle brake swap Q's

    OK, got the brackets from Emmit@ Ruffstuff with some spring perches, and started to disassemble the drum assembly.

    Adjusted the shoe adjustment for the drums to come off.. NOPE..
    Pull all the 3/4 bolts out of the hub and pry out the axle.
    loosened the jam nut/retainer ring and other jam nut to pull the hub off..
    4-3/4 bolts that hold on the backing plate. Tapped on it to remove and going to put on the disc brake brackets..

    1-- Which way does the bracket get clocked? Forward or reversed? (I'm finishing up on the spring post flip..)
    2-- Does the disc brake 'hub' have the bearings and everything to just slide on the axle end and then get tightened back up?

    I'll try and add pics later..

    E

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Litchfield Illinois
    Posts
    596

    Default

    Check out this link at Pirate 4x4. There are good pictures and directions on doing the swap. Some things might be different. I think the guy that wrote this welded on brackets. It is a pretty straight forward swap. I used this article to help when I did my 14 bolt disc brake swap. Good luck.


    http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...b_disc_brakes/

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    N/W mississippi
    Posts
    159

    Default

    It didn't look like the drum was wanting to come off..
    I kinda thought that they were one piece

    THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH

    Errol

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    N/W mississippi
    Posts
    159

    Default

    Well, mine is off of a '78 C-20, NOT a K-20 so there looks to be some differences in rotor size..
    I'm looking into the K-20 with 12.5 rotors and K calipers..

    The calipers can come later so i can atleast get this thing rolling around and measure the 'travel' length of the rubber line from the frame.


    OH.. I NEED to know which way the calipers are to be 'clocked'? To the front or rear?


    Thanks.E

  5. #5

    Default

    Hey guys,
    I clocked mine to the rear

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Greenwood, Indiana
    Posts
    1,705

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by andrew View Post
    Hey guys,
    I clocked mine to the rear
    I have seen several clocked that way. Make sure the bleeder points the right way
    Thanks, George
    Joshua 24:15

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,732

    Default

    On a solid axle truck, the rear calipers don't really matter which side they are on. Front or back. I prefer the back just because there will be more stuff in front of them to block tree's, rocks and anything else that gets run over.

    For the most part, on a M715. It won't matter if front calipers were put on the forward or rear of the axle. It really only matters on independent front suspensions with lots of linkage such as a 2wd truck with the linkage in front of the axle. Those vehicles are set up toe in so that as the tires get pushed, all the tie rod ends will take out slop and actually make the tires go a little bit toe out which will equal pretty close to 0° going down the road if all the parts are good. Calipers on the back keep toe out pressure on the tie rod ends.

    A front wheel drive vehicle usually has the steering linkage behind the axle and is set up toe out at rest with the calipers on the front of the axle. The front tires pulling the car along will take up slack and move toe in going down the road. Again, if all the steering parts are good it will be around 0°.

    Just do as George says. Make sure the bleeders are up. Otherwise, you will have to put a 2x4 in there, unbolt them and bleed them off the mounts.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    N/W mississippi
    Posts
    159

    Default

    HOLD THE BUS!!

    Does any one else have these problems?
    Went to Napa and got the 78 K-20 rotors and was all happy going home, Went to slide the rotor on the back of the hub that holds the bearings and NOPE! Won't fit..? Had to grind off some of the outer dia of the hub so it would go past the inside dia of the rotor..

    THEN, there is ONE section between the lug holes that is thicker and WILL NOT LET IT GO ANY FURTHER because the inside 'hat' of the rotor has sections for the hub to fit into..

    I'm having problems with Imageshack to upload pics.
    I'll try the home computer..

    E

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Litchfield Illinois
    Posts
    596

    Default

    I did not have that problem at all. Did you get the front rotors for a 8 bolt four wheel drive font axle? The only issue I had was getting the correct wheel studs that were long enough and correct diameter. I received your pm and will call later after work.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    N/W mississippi
    Posts
    159

    Default

    Hey.. Did you forget to see which way the rotor goes ON?
    You may have it BACKWARDS??










    ()













    OH, You mean THIS WAY.....?




    Sorry guys..

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