marco rubber has em cheap
marco rubber has em cheap
As embarrassing as it is for me to post this I think I need to post it anyway.
I didn't pay close enough attention to back space. I'm not able to use the wheels as I built them. All but one location works fine but the front right wheel needs quite a bit more back space.
I spent quite a bit of time getting these to run true and spent way to little time making sure the offset would work on all four corners.
At this point I'm considering my options.
Hey, it's a learning experience! Thanks for sharing it.
Do you know what went wrong? I've never done a set (the 12-bolts in the shed will get done...eventually), but I thought the commercial centers bottomed against a step. Are your DIY centers spaced up on the shim?
Is cut/reweld a possibility? How about a flat spacer behind the wheel- I'm sure someone local with a burn table could whip one out easily.
You probably saw this about orings:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...ing-specs.html
Orings can be cut square carefully and glued with cyanoacrylate. I like to use accellerant from the hobby shop, so I don't have to sit there holding perfectly still.
This one is easy. I didn't even look at the right front wheel when I test fit the wheel. I looked only at the left front and assumed the other side was the same.
The shim is pretty close to flush on the center on both sides. There may be up to 1/4" of overlap at some points. The stock centers did not start with a square lip.
I'm not sure I want to bother spending the time to try cutting the centers out at this point. I'm leaning towards using the wheels on the trailer I'm planning to build later. I have a spare frame and bed that I was planning to convert to a trailer. I'd use the stock rear axle I have as spare for it as well.
I had a bad experience with spacers on my old CJ. They seemed to like to come loose while I was at speed. I'm not sure what I was doing wrong but they came loose at least twice on me. I even tried using thread lock after the first time. Maybe I should have used left hand thread studs? It was only the front right that seemed to come loose...
Yes I saw the thread over at Pirate. That's what prompted me to try Fastenal.
The o-rings came in today. They seem to be a perfect fit. 457 Buna N 70 O-Ring Fastenal part number 0413821. My total cost for 5 of them was $6.10.
I also tried an experiment on my truck. I put the lug nuts on before the wheel and tightened them against the drum. I then put the wheel on and installed a few spare lug nuts to hold the wheel in place. It works. The wheel has plenty of space and the tire does not rub on the steering arm.
So now I'm wondering if I can get longer lug bolts and just have a spacer made out of 1/2 or 3/4" steel and sandwich it between the drum and the wheel. Or maybe I could bolt it to the drum where the flat head bolts already bolt through the drum.
Or could I get away with longer lug bolts and just use lug nuts as spacers?
Since I have a couple extra wheels I decided to see if an idea I had would work so I can use the wheels as I built them.
I cut a center out of a wheel but just cut out a circle around the bolt holes. This effectively created a spacer the thickness of the original wheel.
I sandwiched the newly cut spacer between the drum and wheel and bolted the wheel on tight. This leaves me with about 1/4" of clearance between the rubber and the steering arm.
It seems like this will allow me to use the wheels after all.
I'll get some pictures tomorrow.
Very cool to hear!
To prevent it walking around, is it worth welding it to the wheel? I know flat spacers have a bad rep...
I don't think I need to weld them. The lug centric part is still retained.
And the sacrificed wheel:
Not much room to spare but hopefully enough:
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