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Thread: Pertronix upgrade

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  1. #1

    Default Pertronix 24 volt electronic ignition MV-161

    I posted the below on a Power Wagon forum, but I'm adding the Pertronix to my M715's so I'll post it here as well. The Pertronix part number is the same for the M715's and the M37's.

    I ordered an electronic ignition for my M-37. This morning I just received and installed my 24-volt Pertronix Ignitor electronic ignition and I am now a true believer. For the $157.89 I spent to have it delivered and the 20 minutes it took to install, this product is awesome. My problem had been the engine missing at high RPM's. I had adjusted the gap, dwell and timing to specs as well as done vacuum and compression checks. They were all within their respective ranges, but did not solve my problem. Once I installed the Pertronix, problem solved. In hindsight, it seems to have been the points bouncing off the cam lobes at high RPM's. The part number is MV-161 and I ordered it from their website. They do not stock it, so it takes 1-2 weeks for them to make it and ship it. All I had to do is trim the two wires, and crimp on the connectors and it all fit neatly inside my stock distributor.

    Some comments I received from Charles Talbert at regarding this post that might pertain to your upgrade:

    "Your issue is very likely that the shaft bushings are worn allowing the shaft to bounce around instead of running true. The symptoms you describe are very typical. You should have taken care of this issue by repairing at the time of the module install. If you don't attend to this issue, the pick up ring will soon start to run into the module as a result of shaft wobble destroying the new components. New bushings need to be installed & reamed to .501" ID for top performance. Your shaft may be worn out of spec & require replacement also. End play is shim adjustable. The cam on the top end of the shaft wears & is a major contributor to this. It is repairable only by machine work. The felt under the rotor needs to be oiled regularly to prevent cam wear. Only the bottom shaft bushing gets oiled from the engine. The top bushing must be manually oiled regularly. The top oil seal also is a big factor in lubrication. Many owners are not aware of this, thus we see lots of wallowed out top bushings."

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    SF Bay Area, CA


    Thanks for posting the great Info !!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Louisville, KY


    What kind of oil? New/clean engine oil? Thanks...Ken
    Thanks for all the help!

  4. #4


    New/clean engine oil

  5. #5


    By any chance you have photos? I am a very visual learner, it would help tremendously. Thanks

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Louisville, KY


    Just pull off the rotor and it's right there on the top of the shaft. Can't miss it!
    Thank you Wateka!!
    Last edited by kyken; June 11th, 2010 at 01:28 PM. Reason: Added thanks!
    Thanks for all the help!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Mt. Prospect, Illinois 60056


    What is regularly? I don't put alot of time on my engine, maybe 1000 miles a season, but haven't had the ignitor cap off since I got the truck. Will be replacing the coil very soon. Thats probably a good time to lube the felt pad.
    militarypotts Spec/4 Military Police, Vietnam Era, "Does the noise in my head bother you? Welcome to the Twilight Zone!"

  8. #8

    Default Pertronix upgrade

    Bought a Pertronix MV161 and began to upgrade:

    Ignitor without changes

  9. #9

    Default amendments

    Edit was limited to 5 Minutes, I missed that limit...

    Pertronix, only few items

    next step, have a look inside the cap; not bad

    the old stuff, not bad too

    condenser pulled

    more stuff pulled

    Pertronix installed

    magnet sleeve: Please give a rough hint, have I have to turn it 180°?

    That's for the moment, I have to crimp a ring conncetor and then it should be done. Of course the rotor has to be installed again.

  10. #10

    Default sorry for another amendment

    BTW, did new spark plugs too
    removing spark plug wire, not the correct tool, but it works (from adirondacks)

    New Spark plug seems to be slightly different than used one, got it from Erik's.
    I noticed a longer thread, Spark is autolite 2344, the old is 2245; I assume that might be work, what do you think?

    Sorry for extending it so much...

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