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Thread: Electric Fuel Pump

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,635

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    My M715 had an electric pump installed when I got it three years ago. The fire department did a very good job of messing up everything they touched. A clothes pin held the rubber inlet hose to the stock fuel pump metal inlet line. They just bolted the inline pump to the old fuel pump/vacuum pump housing. I installed an Auto Meter fuel psi gauge in the dash, with the sender between the fuel pump and the carb. I have never had more than 6 psi at anytime at the gauge. For the last week or so, when I drive the truck home, it will loose pressure at a specific part of the five mile drive. Right after I pick my son up from school. It has completely stalled on me several times and other times it will go back up to around 3psi. Enough to get home. I have changed the filters, blown the lines out, tried removing the tank and cleaning it the best I could. Yesterday, it did it again. I had left the setup alone because I will replace it all when I put the mighty 396 Big Block in. But it made me made yesterday.

    I got home and removed all of the fire departments mess. I then installed a Carter electric centrifigul pump that I had used on my '53 Studebacker street rod truck. I mounted the pump to the back of the underbed locker, inside the frame rail as high as I could get it with an angle drill. I now am getting 9-12 psi at any speed and my filters look very clean. I know, I have only driven 10 miles, but normally by this time the filters get a brownish appearance.

    I pressure tested the inline pump and it seems to be putting out a constant 5-8 psi. The only thing I can think of is fuel vaporization or vapor lock. The pump was mounted pretty close to the exhaust manifold and was having to pull the fuel.

    I just wanted to share this because that seems like a great place to put a pump. It is out of the way, protected from brush and such by the frame/bed/fuel tank and easily accessible for maintenance.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,380

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    Hopefully that solves the problem...sounds like it should...good tip on the mounting, hanks for sharing that!!
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    West-central Ohio
    Posts
    685

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    I figured out where this was going long before you got there, man.

    An old shade-tree mechanic trick to prevent vapor lock on systems prone to such , wa to apply a wooden clothespin to the metal line - it was supposed to act as a heat sink or something. I'd bet that the FD had the same prollem, and the clothepin was the fix for that, as opposed to fuel line clamp.

    I'm just sayin'....
    "other peoples junk, is something or other" - Militarypotts 02/07/2011

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    NorthEast Texas
    Posts
    261

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    360fords in 67-72 pu were notorious for this.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    parsons Kansas
    Posts
    476

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    when you moved the pump back by the tank you let the pump push fuel uphill versus trying to draw it uphill. electric fuel pumps were designed to push fuel and back there away from the heat you also eliminated vaper lock. I had the same problem with my pro streeter and the guys at holley told me this and it worked great for me and I never had another problem with it. the closer to the tank the better.
    67 M725, 67 M715, 68 M715

  6. #6

    Default

    This is why so many vehicles including some M vehicles have the pump in the tank. M35's and M151&A1 have them in the tank...So did my M211 now that I think of it.
    Zone holster maker

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