floorboard heat reduction

[ken ruhland]

After getting my truck on the road and finally able to drive it with the exhaust done on it the heat from the floor is amazing. Anyone have suggestions for reducing this? I remember an article from four wheeler magazine a while back where they did some temp and noise tests with dynamat in a m715 but cant locate it.

[jpsnblood]

I think the article you are referring to was in the JP magazine aug. 2006 issue.Cooling the green monster.
I found the article on their web site.
I hope this link works.
Oh yeh. Mine will fry your feet. when I get my truck back on the road I will apply some of the tricks in the article.
http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...its/index.html
hope this helps

[Barrman]

I had the same issue when I switched from glass packs under the cab floor to turbo style mufflers under the floor. I didn't want anything that could rot or cause rust on or under the cab. So, I just lowered the mufflers an inch or so. Big, big difference. Roadster doors help a lot too.

[compexp]

One thing we haven't addressed in quite a while is under the hood heat issues.

Several years ago, one of our members (Angry Barry) used a wedge of some kind to lift the back end of the hood up 1.5" or so to let heat escape.

These trucks (all of the FSJs) have a real problem with under-hood heat as there is no way for it to escape. I have seen louvered hoods (not sure how that would look on a "stockish" Army truck), and the hood wedge.

What have some of you thought of to reduce the heat under there?

[Barrman]

I had troubles with the under hood heat at BV in 2008. 60 degrees outside and I was hitting 220 on the temp gauge climbing Mt. Princeton in low 2nd for what seemed like hours. The hood was too hot to touch for a very long time after that climb.

Yes, I need a fan shroud, but the hood heat was pretty bad.

Tom had this problem at LBL in 2004. He ended up opening his hood every time we stopped. His engine would cool down right away.

I am going to solve this issue by going 6.2 I think.

[BlessedM715]

I also just got my M715 on the road a few months ago and the first parade I had a vapor lock problem just after the parade finished. When I got it home I purchased a laser temp gun to take some readings and the Exhaust manafold was running about 625 deg! and the stock fuel pump was running 235 deg. I made a bolt on heat shield to protect the fuel pump wrapped the fuel line going around the engine with silver thermal fuel line tape (Unnoticable) and the pump temp dropped about 35 Deg. No Problems since!
I still have to peal my boots off of the floor after I drive it but at least is doesent quit now!

[ken ruhland]

Thanks jpsnblood that was the article i remembered. After reading it again i think i might try just something under the floors with a space between them. I would rather not put dynamat on the floor. I want a stock looking interior and think that even after putting a coating on top it would still trap water. My only other thought was to buy some indoor/outdoor carpet and glue some kind of padding or dynamat the carpet. I would make it like a large floor mat so i can remove it if it gets wet.

[syzygy]

the folks at dynamat make several products you may be interested in... one is a floor mat style deal IIRC about 3/4-1" thick that is safe to get wet, and could be easily removable, but is designed to reduce noise specifically, and I'm sure would also block some of the heat. My eventual plan is to use the roll on/sticky dynamat first, coat it with some bedliner, then use the sound deadening mats as floor mats...

[Roy]

We usually wrap the exhaust with Thermotec or something similar. We also use Dynamat and similar products.