Power Steering Problems

[PilotMan]

Hey Guy's, I have a modified jeep that was steering good until I welded up the front gears. It is only for off road. The problem is just sitting still, not moving at all. I just today put a new 1989 chevy 1 ton 4X4 pump and did the mods to it. It is bled correct but I get maybe 1-2 inches left and right. It has 44X18.50X16.5 tires. Can it be because I welded the front gears??? Or what do you think? Thank you Steve

[jpsnblood]

seems like it should turn the wheels left or right the same amount as an unlocked diff while the truck is sitting still.
I had selectable lockers in my rubicon , with front and rear lockers locked it turned probably 50% less effectively while moving.
I am curious how the wheels turn sitting still, and how they turn with the weight off on jack stands.
I have a set of chevy 1 ton axels complete with all steering gear in the backyard waiting its turn to go on the truck.
I am very interested in how the steering box attached ect.
If you can take some detail pics and pm them to me sometime that would be great.
here's a couple of rocks for ya
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...IMG_1691-1.jpg

[Ronner]

It should turn. Those are some big meats and it may want to squeal on you but they should still turn.
My first guess would be that you got a bad pump if you got all the air out of the system.

[wrecker]

I suspect you've bent or stripped your pitman arm from the stress of turning with the locked diff. If I understand, your new pump and old pump both leave you with the same problem, therefore, it probablly isn't a pump issue.

[randygar]

Unless you have zero scrub radius, which you don't, when turning while standing still, one wheel turns forwards while the other turns backwards... a welded diff will prevent this, so you're asking the power steering to skid one or both tires.

What happens when you try? Does the steering wheel turn the full amount but the tires only turn a little? This would point to a bad pittman arm like wrecker said, or severe damage to the gearbox or tierods. (if they look like a banana while doing this, replace them!)

If, on the other hand, you can't turn the steering wheel (you run out of assist), it could be a bad pump (unlikely if you've already tried two), a bad gearbox, or just an undersized system. A pressure gauge on the pump output line (you can pick up a 2000psi gauge for $12-ish at harbor freight, then some fittings at the hardware store to get it inline) will tell you if the pump is putting out full pressure.

If the problem is an undersized steering system, a hydraulic assist setup isn't too much work or money. There's do-it-yourself instructions for tapping ports onto most truck gearboxes, then if you pick up a used ram (try your local scrapyard - the one here is always chopping up old bulldozers, etc, with perfectly working hydraulics), you can do the whole project for $50-ish. This will take most of the force off your gearbox and tierods, and instead move it to a heavy ram mounted directly to the axle.

--Randy

[militarytrux]

Dumb question but did you check the return lines to see if they're free and clear?

[foodstamp]

if the pitmant arm is too short it wont have enough throw to turn full lock to lock. the box can be maxed out but the axle itself might have more play

[gunnie]

have you tryed to jack the front end off the ground to bleed the the fluid, turn the sterring wheel lock to lock. take some of that tire pressure off the ground

[KYSAR725]

lift one tire off the ground and see if it will turn. what you are describing is just bind up, that is why up here in the mountains we use full hydraulic steering on rigs with front lockers and spools. ( note if you use full hydraulic steering it can be very dangerous on the hwy and you can snap your knuckels right off ) good luck.