Found this engine info off of off-road.com for AMC engine swap

[gonz]

http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=258946 is the link.

This is Al Krason here in Denver, there is an alternative to the 230 Tornado,(that is blown) in the M-715 Kasier Jeep there is an inexpensive replacement for the 230.
**Please note that the 230 Tornado is not un-reliable, but is very underpowerd for the Kasier M-715 Jeep.

THIS IS THE POORMANS PERFORMANCE INCREASE TO THE KAISER M-715 JEEP.

I did some looking to see what will fit the T-98 4 speed in the Kaiser, M-715 Jeep, while retaining the original T-98 4 speed. This is what I have foundplease take this for what it is worth to you as the most inexpensive upgrade of M-715 Kaiser). If a "PROPER UPGRADE IS DONE" the cost is indeed very high, going with the standard Novack $360, Advance Adapters, cost is about $500 for A/AD + $130 for eng mounts.

$800. Rebuilt 350 chevy
$630. A/AD
$ 75. Bellhousing used
$ 50. Clutch new
$ 25. Pilot bushing/bearing new
$ 30. Throw out bearing new
$ 75. Pressure plate
$ 75. Flywheel used
$250. Core for 350 chevy (no they will not take the 230 Tornado in exchange)
About $2000. for just the main hardwere and when you add the stuff below it will push you to about $3000. So you got a good truck with a 350 cu engine. Now I now that to install a DIESEL 6.2/6.5 GM is much more expensive the GM has the same bolt pattern as the 350 Chevy) so 6.2 is $3200.00, a long block rebuilt with injector pump, you still need a core, and all the stuff in the middle. About $4000 big bucks. So the question is what can be done to make it a "Good project with some reason of sanity"??

Please note that I did not include stuff like: Labor Cost, radiator, oils & fluids, filters, new starter, alternator, carb, distributor . stuff & wires plugs etc.etc...

The METHOD M-715 upgrade (take your time in developing the proper steps in conversion, remember it's all cost, Your's).

Use the AMC 360/401 engine,(they are very inexpensive In Junk Yards about $100. for a whole engine (U-Pull)in the Denver market, overhaul kit is $170 with all parts I.E. rings, bearings, gaskets,etc..)
You need to get the bellhousing, from the T-18 4 speed (it came on the following J-series Jeeps full size, with 8cyl 1971-1978 (tooth count S27-L17T & S27-L23T)). Stickout is the lenght of the shaft on the output of the 4 speed, just the shaft to the first step on the 4 speed) the length of the sitickout has to be 14 1/8" on the right T-18 4 speed. The T-98 4 speed has a stickout of 10 1/4" too short for the bellhousing that comes with the full size J-series trucks. The T-98 & T-18 are the same length and have same bolt pattern, the difference is the size of the input shaft diameter, T-98 has Diam. of 1 1/16" and the T-18 has the Diam. of 1 1/8". The T-98 has 17 splines & the T-18 has 17 & 23 splines-(71-72) 17 splines-(73-78) *I am only talking about the 14 1/8" stick- out 4 speed and years made.. If you can find a Jeep (fullsize) that has a 360 or a 401 with a 4 speed (T-18) it will drop in to the M-715, (the best method & cost effective, all from Junk yard $250.) in the following years 1971-1978. A T-98 can be used providing that a input center shaft is changed from 10 1/4" to 14 1/8" (a disassembly of T-98 is required).
(C) COSTS>>>>>>> $150. eng good runing (bellhousing & flywheel etc..) (Junk yard block).
$170. overhaul kit
$ 80. shaft for T-98
$ 50. clutch heavy duty
$ 30. throw-out bearing
$ 75. pressure plate
$ 40. eng. mounts
This is much more sane $600. plus Labor & Stuff $1000... $1600.

I will try to refine this further for better costs. Let me know if this list can be expanded more, to include better way of doing stuff... ADD, EXPAND, INPUT, SUGGEST, PLEASE !!!<<<<

I hope this helps those owners that have the FSJ-Military types.

Al Krason, Denver

[fisherman]

Another one not on the list is a buick 350 from a J truck. A buick with a factory 4 speed t-18 pretty much drops right in with new motor mounts. You will need the bellhousing and t-18 input shaft installed into your t-98. Pretty much a slam dunk.

[randyscycle]

I'm thinking that if you are just talking a motor swap and everything goes perfectly, then maybe it'll cost what he says. Big maybe.

But............

What about the worn out starter, distributor, alternator, carburetor, and machine shop labor to regrind the crank and possibly bore the worn out 360/401? Then you still have to take into account that will you actually find an engine that cheap, and the parts that cheap as well? Plus I don't think anyone ever takes into account the time they spend. I know, I know, its all free, but still, how about all those runs to the parts store. That costs fuel, right? I know he mentioned that, but he's really assuming that stuff won't come into play. IT will without a doubt. The last 360 they made was probably what, 20 years ago at least?

Not to be a buzzkill, but I don't think it could be done that cheaply even assuming that the truck doesn't need any other work too, like a rewire or at least a few mods to go to 12 volts. Again if you truly figure all expenses involved.

[kwai]

You can find a good running 350 TBI for less than that.

[dahoyle]

Not to be too critical, but that comparison is a joke. It compares a junkyard 360, to a re-man 350. Granted, he did allow for 170 for the overhaul kit, but there is a world of difference between a junkyard core and an overhaul kit, and a re-manufactured engine.

As pointed out, I can find complete TBI drivetrain donors for less than either of those estimates, and end up with a modern tranny/t-case. You would be surprised how little a rusted out Suburban in running condition goes for. Even good examples, only pull 2-3000 around here, and a good running rustbucket will go for half that or less.

To each his own, but aside from being a rough list of what is required for each swap, there is very little useful information in that post.

[phoenix]

The whole problem with the cost has to do with the transmission. Buying adapters, new or used, is where the cost is. Instead of using the original trans, just use a good 4 speed and engine of your choice from the same two wheel drive truck and modify the jack shaft lenth and change engine mounts.

Adding all the other costs of fixing up the truck is not right, since that would have to be done anyway, so it should not count in an engine comparison.

If you spend 400 dollars on a engine and trans already together from a two wheel drive, and make your own engine mounts, then get the jack shaft lenth changed for 40 bucks, it would cost you 440.00 I modified my jack shaft myself adding in a piece of pipe and welding it all together. It is short, so you really don't need it perfectly balanced.

I could care less if the engine was rebuilt, how many miles will you put on your truck in a year anyway? Do you really need that rebuilt or new engine?

Why not use a 401 and T18 from a two wheel drive J-truck? I would think that would be the cheapest by far and it would be the correct lenth too. I don't know if the engine mounts would bolt in or not.

I have a 351C and a T18 ford trans in mine, and it was cheap, but I had to move the transmission shifter hole about 5 inches forward, which would not be necessary for the deep bell housing on the J-truck engine and trans.

[dahoyle]

Why not use a 401 and T18 from a two wheel drive J-truck?

Uhhh, because no such thing exists. All J-trucks were 4WD.

It is easy enough to find good candidates without going with an AMC motor. As you said, tho, unless you are really set on running the T-98, there is no reason not to swap the tranny as well as the engine. I wouldn't spend any money on an adapter to run a small block, or any other engine. Too easy to just swap it all out.

[phoenix]

Uhhh, because no such thing exists. All J-trucks were 4WD.

Found this from:http://www.offroaders.com/tech/jeep/...es-pickups.htm


In 1965 Jeep changed the model number to a four digit number with the exception of the J-100 panel delivery truck. In 1967 the two wheel drive models were dropped. In 1970, the Gladiators received the same style grill as the Wagoneer, which was the first styling change since its introduction. 1971 marked the end of the 3000 series and in 1972 the "Gladiator" name was dropped and the J trucks were simply called Jeep trucks.

I was surprised to see that they did not make the two wheel drives for more years though.

[jeepcj]

With AMC parts getting increasingly harder to find it a no brain-er go Chevy

Anybody want to trade my 401/T18/Dana 20 for a Caddy 500/ turbo 400 or Chevy 454/turbo350/np205?

In my CJ come here it run

[Duane]

I dont think there is any way to get a rebuilt small block for 800 dollars, to rattle off some prices...

hot tank,bore,hone,cam bearings 400.00
cut crank 150.00
rebuild rods 125.00
rebuild heads (no parts) 150.00 to 200.00
pistons ,rings (cheap cast) 200.00
bearings,oil pump 125.00
cam,lifters,timing chain 150.00
gasket set 50.00 and up


and thats using PAW cheap parts, and doing all the other work yourself, everytime I do a motor for myself or someone else, it cost at least 1000 in parts and machine work. you can do a hone and a rering, but dont call it a rebuild




Duane