Anyone done a total rewire? I'm not looking for mil spec but more like a painless system. Any suggestions on a brand to use. Thanks in advance,Lanny
Anyone done a total rewire? I'm not looking for mil spec but more like a painless system. Any suggestions on a brand to use. Thanks in advance,Lanny
My wiring was pretty cut up by the PO so much of mine is new. Thats why I did the drawings. There is at least one company that makes up the harness but it is expensive. As for the wire, if you want to do your own, there is a type that will match stock and is heat and weather resistant. If you need details on any of this, I'll post.
SFC, HQ,129th Sig Co, PAARNG, Vietnam Era
Lanny,
I rewired my truck and I am in the process of doing Grantshire's as we speak. I use a guy on e-bay and his ID is ez2wire4u. He sells simple easy to use kits that work very well.
I put in a 12 circuit in mine and I am using the 8 circuit in Grantshire's simply because of the diesel and less need for wiring. I've had zero issues at all with those kits. They come with the signal flasher, and a relay as well for an electric fan or fuel pump.
"Free advice is worth what you pay for it."™
Thanks, Randy I'll check it out,or just bring it to you.
Are you staying 24v or thinking of going to 12? I ask because in another thread about re-wiring, it was brought up the you will need a different size wire for 12v. Half the voltage means twice the current needed. Just thought I'd throw in this tid-bit for all to see and think about.
"We are here for the meeting!"
That isn't necessarily true. It all boils down to your power requirements, which is dictated by the component being powered. There is a difference between the 12 and 24 volt components, and that difference is what will determine the power requirements, and the gauge wire needed. You have to remember that when switching, then virtually none of the original components will work, on the 12 volt system, and will have to be replaced. It is the new components which will determine the current, and as a rule, the kits such as painless, etc, are just fine for those components.
I just found that rather than try to deal with a non-fused, all the same color, missing wire label mil harness for a 12V conversion, that I was light years ahead with a dedicated universal harness.
If you wanted to keep the three lever switch, that can be worked in too.
"Free advice is worth what you pay for it."™
Total rewirering, thats what we usually have to do in Germany to make a 30 or more year old wireing fit for road registration. So we are used to that. And the needed stuff is easily to purchaise over here.
Wolf
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