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Thread: Paint removal and engine mount question

  1. #1

    Default Paint removal and engine mount question

    So I've settled on the 4bt swap, but since it's going to take the next yer to get all the parts I thought I'd start going through the truck and doing the bodywork and paint. What does everyone else use for paint and rust removal? I was just planning on an angle grinder with a wire cup and an orbital sander. Would stripper be better?

    On the engine side I plan on 4bt, nv4500 and CUCV axles. Is there anything I should look at doing to prep for the swap like removing engine mounts? Hoping to get everything I can done now to make the actual swap easier.

    Thanks,
    David

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Springdale, Arkansas
    Posts
    1,431

    Default

    Hey David, I just did two trucks back to back frame off resto's. I've seen many who did just use a stripper and scraper to remove old paint and I did a hood that way. Believe me, it is was a huge mess.
    The best results I've gotten so far have been taking it to a local monument company and having everything sand blasted. It gets the paint, gunk, rust and just about anything else adhereing to you body. It does take full dissasembly/reassembly but wow, what a great start to get a factory finish.
    Sorry no advice on the 4bt swap but someone will chime in here with more experience than I have.

  3. #3

    Default

    I've seen a lot of your post and you do some beutiful work! I've always heard blasting would warp body panels, are the M715's so thick it's just not an issue?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,533

    Default

    I have heard of door skins warping due to sandblasting on these trucks...
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Springdale, Arkansas
    Posts
    1,431

    Default

    When I took my doors in to be blasted I told the guy to take it easy and "go lightly". Then I stood there and watched him do it just to make sure. It worked pretty well, no noticeable warping but I did have to use a high build primer to hide the pocked area's that used to be rusty.
    I did hand strip the hood though, I was afraid if it did get all heated up unevenly it would turn out looking like a sack of marbles. JMHO
    Thanks for the compliment. I saw that the weather is supposed to be above 40deg Thursday so I think I will try and get the truck out and drive it around a little since my surgery. Man, I'm sure looking forward to that.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Litchfield Illinois
    Posts
    596

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    Soda blasting works very well for body work. It is less agressive and won't warp the panels. Look around and you will find people who can come right to you to do it. The soda is easy to get rid of also. I just purchased a soda blaster from Harbor Freight, but have not had a chance to use it yet. I will let you know. I know the commercial ones work well. A friend had his 48 Chevy done and it worked great.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    I've heard a lot of people say that sandblasting will warp panels, but honestly, to get the metal that hot, you'd have to use a really big commercial blaster and really concentrate in one area for a long time. That, and if the sand the blaster is using is that coarse, then I'd find someone who knows what they are doing.

    Most places that do automotive blasting either use aluminum oxide, plastic beads, or soda. If you just take it to any old blasting place, they will get the finish off with whatever they have, and that might be the same media they strip bridges with.

    But in answer to your question, blasting tot he bare metal is best. Sanding can do that too, but it takes a really long time and there are some areas you simply can't reach. Chemicals are OK, but do make a mess, and can get left in the cracks and crevices, only to return damaging your new paint later.
    "Free advice is worth what you pay for it."™

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